Mexican food and wine

Cinco de Mayo is over, but Tex-Mex food is a fiesta year round.

Which raises the question among wine drinkers: does wine pair with Tex-Mex?

Answer: certainly, señor. Forget about beer and tequila.

Wine possesses more complexity than any other beverage: more intricate layers of aroma, more diversity of flavor, more spirit. Which makes wine a fine match for the complex, varied dishes produced by Mexican-inspired cooks.

Tomato-based chili, a Tex-Mex icon, pairs well with an Italian Sangiovese, Chianti, or a robust Zinfandel. All match the acidity of tomatoes without dowsing chili powder’s fire.

Shrimp or seafood prepared with cilantro, garlic, and onions your Tex-Mex favorite? A German Riesling, Italian Soave, or Pinot Grigio is excelente.

Heavy sauce and cheese dishes like enchiladas and cheese-topped tamales do well with Chianti, sweeter Zinfandels, and Riesling.

Mole sauce and pungent chipotles often accompany beef, pork, and chicken in Mexican food. Such rich, earthy tastes make pairing a little trickier, but fruity Zinfandels and fruit-forward Australian Shirazs are up to the task.

Guidelines:

When in doubt, go with acidity. Riesling and Chianti are default choices.

Robust seasonings call for fruity, powerful Zinfandel and Australian Shiraz.

Pass on some standbys: Tex-Mex mauls Chardonnay’s oaky, toasty character. Chilies clash with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot tannins—fire in your mouth obliterates the wonderful complexities and delicious splendor of Tex-Mex haute cuisine.

Recommended:

• Columbia Winery Cellarmaster’s Riesling. Sweet, fruity, low alcohol. $12

• Beringer Founders’ Estate Zinfandel. Cassis, green tea, black olive, vanilla. $9

• Bell’agio Chianti. Simple and delicious; comes in straw basket. $12