Pale gold color; citrus, lemon, apple, peach, honey, ruby grapefruit, acacia, whiffs of white flowers, honeysuckle, minerals, bare hint of oak on the nose and palate.
Dry (less than 0.5 g/L RS); mild tannins; vivid acidity (5.7 g/L TA). Light-medium body, approaching fleshy. Pleasantly round, soft, polished in the mouth. Blend of 85-90% chardonnay, remainder semillon and sauvignon blanc (the semillon-sauv blanc are a field blend, with some chard, so percentages are approximations).
The 2022 vintage presented some challenges with heat and drought early, which reduced yield. Grapes hand harvested in early morning to preserve freshness, also early in the season to emphasize acidity and clean presentation of fruit. Chardonnay fermented in oak, semillon-sauv blanc in in stainless steel. Well-crafted oak influence as a framing background note. 12.5% ABV
The “In Avane” name comes from “Avenal”—the Etruscan word for “territory.” Some traces of Etruscan culture remain in the San Felice area, which is located in Castelnuouvo Beradenga in the province of Siena. The wine is part of San Felice’s Vitiarium Collection, designed for high-end dining. It represents the estate’s most advanced sustainability initiates. The website asserts In Avane is the best expression of San Felice’s chardonnay and innovation.
San Felice includes three famous Tuscany estates. Production reaches more than one million bottles—more than one million of Chianti, 80,000 of Brunello, 40,000 of Rosso de Montalcino, and 55,000 if Bolgheri. There are 16 labels, including this one. All San Felice wines are made using estate-owned grapes. The San Felice territory is just south of Florence, while the other two—including In Avane—are south of Siena.
The San Felice winery is located in the heart of Tuscany and has a history dating back centuries. The estate is named for an early Christian saint and originally was owned by the Grisaldi del Taja family. That family was important in the formation of the Chianti Classico consortium, a key group in the history of Italian wine.
Enzo Morganti, a visionary winemaker who spent two decades researching sangiovese clones, purchased the estate in 1968. Morganti focused on high-quality winemaking and re-structuring the estate. In addition to refining sangiovese, he also help resurrect pugnitello, a forgotten grape, that became an iconic element in the estates wines.
San Felice is a leader in sustainable viticulture, moving now toward regenerative and organic agriculture. The winery is self-sufficient in energy with solar panels and has reduced the weight of its bottles to minimize carbon emissions. Today, the estate includes a 1,853-acre resort that includes 445 acres of vineyards and a 44-acre parcel dedicated to experimental viticulture. It is a key winery in the Chianti Classico region.
San Felice In Avane Chardonnay, Toscana IGT 2022: Nice, clean, balanced with good acidity and fruit presentation. Slight bitterness—ruby grapefruit—adds drama at medium-length finish. Drinks like a white Burgundy. Refined, sophisticated. Impressive melding of semillon and sauv blanc into the overall experience. $27-33
Pairing—Excellent aperitif, with appetizers, light first courses. Lemon-herb roasted chicken, chicken piccata, turkey with apricot glaze. Light fish dishes; flounder, sea bass, cod, haddock, sole. Medium texture fish: salmon, halibut, swordfish. Shellfish: lobster, crab, scallops, shrimp with drawn butter or light cream sauces. Linguine with lemon and asparagus, pasta primavera, ricotta-stuffed ravioli, butternut squash risotto. Cheese—Good with charcuterie board; fresh goat cheese, brie, camembert, fresh mozzarella, burrata; young gouda, monterey jack, young pecorino tascano.
