Medium ruby color; blackberry, cherry, red fruits, strawberry, fig, licorice, leather, spice, light oak on the nose and palate.
Dry; smooth tannins; balancing acidity. Medium-plus body. Lush, silky, rich, inviting, fruit-forward. Blend of 45% syrah, 35% grenache, 20% mourvèdre. The 2022 vintage was exceptionally good in Châteauneuf-du-Pape with an early harvest, light yields, and high quality. This effort reflects that. 14% ABV
The “Les Bartavelles” (The Royal Partridges) refers to a specific partridge—Alectoris graeca, or rock partridge—derived from the French term “perdix bartavelle” which describes this distinctive large, reddish-brown mountain bird. The birds prefer rolled pebbles terroir, which is the distinctive feature of Châteauneuf-du-Pape vineyards—the famed “galets roulés” (rolled pebbles) that reflect sunlight, hold warmth, and limit water evaporation in the elite lower Loire Valley. Jean-Luc chose the name to reflect his philosophy of expressing terroir through his wines.
The wine region is named the “New Castle of the Pope” (Châteauneuf-du-Pape) to reflect the time when the Roman Catholic papacy was housed in France in Avignon from 1309 to 1377. There actually were two castles, which became the largest Gothic palace in Europe at the time. Seven popes reigned from there, from Pope Clement V (1305-1314) who moved the papacy to Avignon in 1309, through Pope Gegory XI (1370-1378), who moved the papal seat back to Rome in 1377. Today, the Palais des Papes is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of France’s most popular tourist attractions with more than 650,000 annual visitors.
The winery is a thoroughly family operation. Jean-Luc Colombo’s mother was a cook from Marseille who infused in her son an early taste for the table. He became an outstanding cook, which led him to winemaking. The website notes: “Known worldwide for his wines, Jean-Luc is also renowned, for his friendliness, generosity and sense of hospitality. He fiercely defends the identity and richness of the French gastronomic heritage.”
Anne Colombo, Jean-Luc’s wife, is the vineyard specialist and “ardently defends biodiversity on the estate.” Daughter Laure Colombo studied commerce at the University of Lille and went to work in the United States at Disney World for the Epcot Food & Wine Festival, for Wine & Spirit Magazine, and as a sommeliers assistant at Alain Ducasse‘s Restaurant at the Essex House in NYC. Website: “Laure returned to France, obtained a Bachelor in Viticulture and Oenology in Bordeaux (and additionally interned at Château Haut-Brion for one year). She finally followed that up with a Master’s Degree in Oenologist from the University of Montpellier. She also experimented with some vinifications in the southern hemisphere. At this point Laure told her father and mother that she was ready and she joined the family estate in 2010.”
Jean-Luc Colombo Les Bartavelles Châteauneuf du Pape 2022 is a delicious, refined, elegant, classic Châteauneuf du Pape from a very skilled winemaker. Rich flavors, refined tannins, long and layered finish. The 2022 vintage is considered outstanding. Snag a bottle. $69
Pairing—Wild game: wild boar, duck breast, venison, hare. Grilled, roasted red meats, beef ribs, leg of lamb with herbs, beef steaks (ribeye, New York strip, porterhouse), hearty stews, beef bourguignon, lamb tajine with spices. Italian dishes with tomato-based sauces, lasagna, pizza. Pan-fried vegetables with thyme and rosemary. Cheese—Very versatile; aged hard cheeses, comté (18 months), aged gruyère, aged cheddar, aged parmigiano-reggiano; semi-hard cheeses, aged gouda, manchego. Well-aged camembert, older brie de meaux.
