Bodegas Perica Oro Reserva, Rioja 2012

Deep ruby color; cherry, plum, blueberry, strawberry, balsamic, cinnamon, nutmeg, vanilla, menthol, leather, coffee cocoa on the nose and palate.

Bodegas Perica Oro Reserva, Rioja 2012

Dry; soft tannins (after 14 years and decanting); balancing, tangy acidity. Medium body. Somewhat disjointed on pop-and-pour, becomes smooth, silky after decanting (recommended on the label). Impressively long, satisfying dark-fruit finish. Blend of 95% tempranillo, 5% graciano. 14% ABV

This is the flagship effort of an historic Rioja Alta family winery. It is only produced in exceptional vintages from carefully selected grapes sourced from estate vineyards more than 60 years old. Don Juan García founded Bodegas Perica in 1912. It remains a family operation, now managed by the third generation. The winery’s name comes from the affectionate nickname, Perica, given to Don Juan’s son, Don David García. Don David modernized the family operation and registered the name with the Consejo Regulador in 1950.

Grapes are hand-harvested, twice sorted, then macerated and fermented in 1,717-gallon French oak vats. The wine ages 30-32 months in new 59.4-gallon French oak barrels. The wine then is aged minimum of 18 months in bottle before release. This extensive aging—common in high-end Rioja—means that although the vintage was 14 years ago, the wine is relatively new on the market.

Bodegas Perica;
Bodegas Perica vineyard
Bodegas Perica hand sorting
Bodegas Perica fermentation vats
Bodegas Perica barrel aging
Bodegas Perica bottle aging

Bodegas Perica’s exclusive use of Allier French oak—sourced from France’s prestigious forest regions—distinguishes the Oro from standard Riojas that typically employ American oak or mixed cooperage. Allier oak imparts refined tannins, subtle vanilla and spice notes, floral undertones, and controlled micro-oxygenation that fosters gradual, elegant evolution. This slower oxygen exchange through the tight-grained French oak allows the wine to develop complexity without overwhelming the fruit character.

Bodegas Perica Oro Reserva, Rioja 2012 is the premier offering from the García family, now in its third generation of ownership since its founding in 1912. Only the best estate grapes in the best vintages of 60-plus-year-old vines are used to make this Rioja celebration of tempranillo with a splash of graciano. Moving into its prime drinking phase after 16 years. $50-60

Pairing—Roasted, grilled lamb with Mediterranean seasonings (rosemary, thyme, smoked paprika, garlic); braised lamb shanks with tomato, paprika, cumin. Aged beef, venison, wild boar. Jamón ibérico, Spanish chorizo, cured sausage. Slow-cooked stews with lamb, beef, pork, root vegetables. Spanish patatas bravas (Spanish potato tapas). Grilled mushrooms with goat cheese (manchego, aged gruyère). Cheese—Aged manchego (12-24 months); idiazaba (smoked, aged 6-12 months); mahón reserva (aged 8-12 months); zamorano; clothbound cheddar (Cabot Clothbound, Beecher’s Flagship). Likely avoid blue cheeses, fresh or soft cheeses; brie, camembert.

Bodegas Perica website

Bodegas Perica founder Don Juan García
Bodegas Perica second-generation owner Don David García
Bodegas Perica third-generation owners Rosa García and brother Don David García