Pale straw-yellow color; lemon, green apple, light brioche, white flowers, hint of almond, minerality-salinity on the nose and palate.
Brut; no discernible tannin; tangy acidity. Very fine mousse. Fresh, lively. Medium body. Made with 100% pecorino grapes. Soft pressed, cryo-maceration, vacuum pressed to harvest only free-run juice, cold clarification of the must, first fermentation in stainless steel. Second fermentation in autoclave (Charmat method). 12% ABV
Pecorino is a native Italian white grape particularly grown in the Abruzzo and Marche regions in east-central Italy bordering on the Adriatic Sea. The grapes are known for their sharp acidity and minerality. The name likely comes from shepherding culture of the area where sheep consumed the berries and the sheep’s milk was used to make pecorino cheese. The variety flirted with extinction in the 1970s. In the 1980s, Marche producer Guido Cocci Grifoni championed the grape. While the grapes were resurrected in the Marche, the first pecorino commercial bottlings were made in Abruzzo.
The pecorino resurrection is impressive. In 2000, only some 215 acres were planted. Today there are some 4,450 acres and production is more than 18 million bottles. While the grape primarily is made in two types of still wine—a reductive, fruit-focus style and an oxidative-textural style often using amphora fermentation—pecorino is increasingly made into sparkling. Grapes for sparkling are harvested early to capture pecorino’s distinctive high acidity. There is extended time in autoclave to develop secondary—four months is standard, what this wine experienced.
The 500-acre Ciccio Zaccagnini is located in Bolognano, alongside the Rome-Pescara highway in the Pescara province, Abruzzo region. Established in the early 1970s, it is 30 miles from the Adriatic coast, thus the minerality-saline notes, and eight miles from the 9,000-foot Maiella Mountain. Marcello Zaccagnini directs the operation. Concezio Marulli is the winemaker. Their slogan: “Wine, art of man.” The tralcetto (stick) is an actual grapevine cutting from the vineyard that is cut and tied by hand with raffia onto each bottle to represent the connection between the vine and the land. Zaccagnini says it exemplifies his philosophy: “nothing from the vine is thrown away.”
Cantina Zaccagnini Brut Blanc de Blancs NV is a fresh, clean example of sparkling wine made with pecorino grapes from a consistent producer of quality, affordable wine. It has modest complexity, good orchard-citrus fruit, excellent acidity; especially suitable as an aperitif or a casual celebration. $20-23
Pairing—Works nicely as an aperitif sipped by itself or light hors d’oeuvres; sea food—oysters, clams, mussels, shrimp cocktail, simple grilled white fish; sushi, sashimi made with lighter fish and vegetable rolls; light pasta with white sauce (no hearty tomato ragù. Fresh green salads; avoid heavy, sweet dressing. Antipasti, grilled zucchini, peppers, eggplant. Cheese—Soft, creamy, triple-cream; triple-cream brie, brillat-savarin; burrata, fresh mozzarella’ camembert, chaource. Can work with parmigiano-reggiano (aged 12-24 months), aged comté, pecorino Tascano (semi-aged, not pecorino Romano), aged gouda (18+ months). Avoid strong blue cheeses, sharp aged cheddar, pungent washed rind cheese (époisses, taleggio, limburger).
