Cheap easy-drinker. There is only faint depth and complexity, but is a very respectable wine for $5-7 a bottle. There are nights and events and situations where that is all you need.
Crane Lake Cellars is a label of the Bronco Wine Company. Bronco was founded in 1973 by brothers Fred T. and Joseph S. Franzia and their cousin John G. Franzia. Bronco is famous for its Charles Shaw label—“Two Buck Chuck.” Bronco owns more than 35,000 acres, mostly in California’s Central Valley. The winery produces nearly 61 million gallons of wine each year. But the fascinating story goes back two Franzia generations.
Typically, I do not review low-end wines. I make an exception here because the wine is honest and the story behind it extraordinary. The wine does well what it is intended to do. More importantly, it allows me the opportunity to tell the Franzia family story, a classic, inspiring immigrant saga. One that features a remarkable woman.
Teresa Franzia was born Teresa Carrara in 1879. She immigrated from Italy to California and married Giuseppe Franzia. They purchased 60 acres in the Central Valley and founded the Franzia Wine Company in 1906. Then Prohibition shut everything down. In the early 1930s, Giuseppe decided to retire from farming and to visit family back in Italy. Teresa stayed in California and secured a loan for $10,000 (more than $241,000 in 2026 dollars) to make wine now that Prohibition was repealed.
Teresa divided the loan money among family members. Half went to her son-in-law, Ernest Gallo, who had married her daughter, Amelia. Ernest used the money to found a winery with his brother, Julio. The other half of the loan money went to her five sons to found Franzia Brothers Winery. So Teresa Franzia literally bankrolled two of the biggest, most successful names in the history of American wine.
Teresa died in 1949 and her sons assumed ownership. In 1973, Coca-Cola acquired Franzia Brothers Winery for stock valued at about $49.3 million ($366.7 million in 2026 dollars). The sale enraged grandson Fred T. Franzia—his own father had voted to sell. Fred vowed to put the Franzia family back into the wine business. The Coca-Cola sale, however, prohibited use of the Franzia name. Three Franzias, brothers Fred and Joseph, and cousin John named their enterprise “Bronco”—a combination of “brother” and “cousin.”
There’s more to the story. After graduating from Santa Clara University in 1964, co-founder Joseph S. Franzia joined the Marines and served two tours in Vietnam. He attained the rank of captain and was awarded a Bronze Star and three Purple Hearts before coming home to build a wine empire with his brother and his cousin.
Fred died in 2022 at age 79. Joseph and John, now in their 80s, both stepped away from the board of directors after Fred’s passing. Today, 13 second-generation cousins oversee the business. Michael J. Franzia serves as chairman of the board. The company remains family-owned and privately held. There are 33 third-generation cousins. Teresa’s $10,000 loan still reaps rewards.
Crane Lake Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon, California NV: Deep ruby color; blackberry, black cherry, raspberry, vanilla, cedar, pepper on the nose and palate.
Dry; soft tannins; modest acidity. Medium body; smooth, juicy. Simple, non-vintage California cab in an eco-friendly lightweight glass bottle. While it lacks depth and complexity, it is a very drinkable pour. Works as a weekday wine that does not challenge anyone. Is cheap and easy, but does cheap and easy well. Emily DuBoce is the winemaker. 12.5% ABV
Pairing—Red meats, lamb; grilled hamburgers; grilled chicken; barbecued meats; pasta dishes with red sauces. Cheese—Aged cheddar, gouda. Avoid soft-ripened cheese, brie, camembert.
