Smooth, juicy GSM, a simple, pleasing dark-fruit pour that works at its lower price point. You can do better in the GSM lane if you go for something priced $20 or more—and Jean-Luc Colombo has many such options—but there are times when good enough is good enough.
This is a nice, if not distinctive, everyday pour or second bottle during an indulgent night. That is an important niche for most of us who do not live off our trust fund allocations. $14-$19
Jean-Luc Colombo makes notable GSM Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines as well as a flagship northern Rhône Syrah—Cornas Les Ruchets. This is one of their entry-level efforts. Nothing wrong with that, especially when all you want to do is twist the Stelvin screwcap and enjoy a wine that does not challenge your palate or pocketbook. It is good for what it aspires to be.
The winery is a family operation. Jean-Luc Colombo’s mother was a cook from Marseille who gave her son an early taste for enhancing the dining table with culinary skill. Jean-Luc became an outstanding cook, which led him to winemaking. The website notes: “Known worldwide for his wines, Jean-Luc is also renowned for his friendliness, generosity and sense of hospitality. He fiercely defends the identity and richness of the French gastronomic heritage.”
Anne Colombo, Jean-Luc’s wife, is the vineyard specialist and champions biodiversity on the estate. The “Les Abeilles” name means “The Bees” in French and bees appear on the label. The family donates a portion of Les Abeilles profits to beekeeping charities.
Anne is joined by daughter Laure Colombo, who studied business at the University of Lille and went to work at Disney World for the Epcot Food & Wine Festival, for Wine & Spirits Magazine, and as a sommelier’s assistant at Alain Ducasse Restaurant at the Essex House in NYC. Laure then returned to France, obtained a bachelor degree in viticulture and oenology in Bordeaux (and additionally interned at Château Haut-Brion). She followed that up with a master’s degree in oenology from the University of Montpellier. Laure joined the family estate in 2010. Bottom line: the family is a serious player in the wine world through multiple generations. This is not their showcase bottling; it is a pleasing at the price pour. The full Colombo lineup is worth your exploration.
Jean-Luc Colombo Les Abeilles Côtes du Rhône 2023: Deep ruby color; blackberry, black cherry, raspberry, plum, licorice, lavender, pinch of pepper, baking spices on the nose and palate.
Dry; unobtrusive, silky tannins that become somewhat more assertive on the finish; mild acidity. Medium body; supple mouthfeel. Classic southern Rhône GSM blend of 60% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre. This is a solid value made from grapes that did not make it into Jean-Luc’s more premium efforts in a hot, drought-stressed year. That does not mean this is a poor pour. It means you get the B team rather than the A team. But Jean-Luc’s second team is still a very slurpable sipper. 14% ABV
Pairing—Grilled lamb chops, lamb kebabs with rosemary, thyme, Grilled pork chops, pork tenderloin with herbes de Provence, country-style sausage. Seared ahi tuna served rare. Mesquite-grilled skirt steak, smoked brisket, cabrito; skip anything heavily sugared, barbecue sauce will flatten the fruit. Tomato-based pasta, puttanesca, sausage ragù, eggplant Parmesan. Cheese—Oussau-Iraty, young Manchego, Pecorino Toscano. Local Rhône, Tomme de Savoie, Cantal entre-deux, young Leguiole. Aged goat cheeses, semi-dry crottin, Bûcheron rind. Comté 12-month, Gruyère, young Gouda. Avoid Roquefort and other blues, stinky washed-rinds like Époisses.
