Bodegas Luis Cañas Gran Reserva Red Wine, Rioja Alavesa DOCa 2018

Deep ruby color; plum, blackberry, fig, rosemary, thyme, leather, licorice, cocoa, coffee, black pepper, meat, tar, cedar on the nose and palate.

Bodegas Luis Cañas Gran Reserva Red Wine, Rioja Alavesa DOCa 2018

Dry; fine, chewy tannins; balancing acidity. Full body; dense, fleshy, mouth-filling. Power and elegance dance together in this brooding presentation of 95% tempranillo, 5% graciano. Grapes come from vines 50-60 years old. Grapes come from estate vineyards on more than 1,111 acres near the small town of Villabuena de Álva (some 300 residents). Chalky, limestone soils provide excellent drainage but nutrient-poor soil forces roots to work deep, helping produce grapes of impressive concentration. This is a Rioja red with muscle and emphasis. 14.5% ABV

The estate avoids synthetic herbicides and fertilizers and practices organic methods to promote soil health and vineyard sustainability. Grapes are hand-harvested in small boxes, then transported to the winery where they are first selected by cluster, then by individual berry. Full malolactic conversion. Aged 24 months in new oak, 70% French, 30% American, then held in bottle for three years before release.

In 1970, Luis Cañas broke two centuries of family tradition by bottling his wine instead of selling it in bulk. The decision transformed the family operation to become one of the most progressive in Rioja Alavesa. Today, his son, Juan Luis Cañas is the owner and winemaker. On the winery’s approach to winemaking, Juan Luis notes: “The main thing for us is the field, the viticulture. What really distinguishes us is our faith in the vineyard rather than the winery.”

Bodegas Luis Cañas owner and winemaker Juan Luis Cañas

Juan Luis elaborates: “Given a choice, I would take a great grape and an average oenologist before an average grape and a great oenologist.” Today, Bodegas Luis Cañas maintains an inventory of some 6,500 oak barrels—60% French, 40% American. The estate follows a three-year rotation policy, continuously refreshing its cooperage to ensure the average barrel age is just three years. New barrels are reserved for Gran Reserva and top-tier wines, such as the barrels used to make this effort.

Bodegas Luis Cañas vineyard

Bodegas Luis Cañas Gran Reserva Red Wine, Rioja Alavesa DOCa 2018 is a rich, sturdy, full-bodied expression of tempranillo-led Rioja. Complex, layered black fruits with well-integrated, sophisticated oak. Classic Rioja laced with expressive red-dark fruits. Appeals to both traditional Rioja sippers and advocates of structured, long-lived wines. $50-60

Pairing—Lamb is quintessential, lamb chops over vine shoots (traditional Rioja prep), roasted lamb, braised lamb shanks, slow-cooked lamb stews, medium-rare roasted leg of lamb; grilled or roasted beef; roast pork chops, slow-roasted suckling pig (cochinillo asado. Game meats, venison stew, wild boar, roasted game birds. Spanish cured meats—jamón ibérico, chorizo, and other dry-cured sausages. Cook meats until tender, avoid heavy cream sauces. Cheese—Sheeps’s milk cheeses; aged (12-24 months) zamorano viejo, manchego viejo; 6-month smoke idiazábal, one-year aged castellan viejo; hard cow’s milk cheeses, 12-plus month aged manchego, 24-month-plus manchego, parmesan; 18-plus month gruyère, Swiss-style cheese (Wisconsin’s Roth Cheese Grand Cru Reserve. Avoid soft-ripened and bloomy-rind cheese (brie, camembert, chèvre; young manchego, blue cheeses, washed-rind cheese.

Bodegas Luis Cañas website

Bodegas Luis Cañas barrel aging
Bodegas Luis Cañas vineyard