Profound expression of grillo, Sicily’s signature white grape. With the vineyard’s close association to the Mediterranean Sea and grillo’s natural saline notes, this effort can be thought of as a sophisticated companion paired with seafood on a sunny day overlooking the long white sands of San Vito Lo Capo beach. Very much worth a sip, and a trip if you want to visit Sicily. $22-26.
Grillo is a cross between catarratto (an important grape in Sicily and Marsala) and zibibbo. It sits somewhere between sauvignon blanc and pinot grigio. Grillo often is described as having more personality than basic pinot grigio, the major white grape on the Italian peninsula. Grillo has more texture and warmth than simple crisp whites, and this is a superiore effort, which highlights the depth and complexity grillo can achieve.
Referenced in the label, the Gazzerota vineyard is the largest of the Cantine Pellegrino estates. The winery notes the “gazzerotta” name comes from an affectionate name for the elegant black and white magpies that fly over Sicilian fields in autumn. Magpies are considered among the smartest birds, often compared to crows and ravens, all fellow members of the Corvidae family. Magpies self-recognize in mirror tests, make and use tools, can imitate human speech, play games and work in teams together, and show grieving behavior. They are not “smart for birds” but genuinely advanced problem solvers with sophisticated social and cognitive capacities.
The Pellegrino family started its wine operation in 1880 and now is run by its sixth generation. The website notes: “‘We need to imagine a prosperous and great future for the Sicily of wine, believe in it and take care of the generous land so as to create a dream, improving it more and more’ said Paolo Pellegrino, founder of the Winery. Thus the secret of the success is the love that has been passed down through generations, that takes care of and protects Marsala and its wine. In this way since far away 1880, the Pellegrino family has written its own history, becoming one of the most important families of Sicilian wine.” Cantine Pellegrino is located near the western port city of Marsala, and grillo is the major grape used in Marsala wine—which is a fortified wine—but it also has gained much traction as a table wine, such as this excellent effort.
Cantine Pellegrino Gazzerotta Senaría Grillo Superiore, Sicilia DOC 2022: Pale straw-gold color; lemon, white peach, tangerine, citrus, almond, saline minerality, complex florals on the nose and palate. Dry; no tannins; excellent, crisp acidity. Light-medium body. Lean finish with pepper hints, a signal of vine age.
The label name “Gazzerotta Senaría” is a reference to a specific vineyard block in the Gazzerotta estate where the vines are at least 35-40 years old. So, although Gazzerotta Senaría is a proprietary vineyard name, its signals a specific area of older, low-yielding vines. Those vines bring distinctive character—depth, complexity, hints of pepper—to premium grillo pour. 14% ABV
Pairing—Grilled, roasted white fish; sea bass, red snapper, cod; grilled swordfish with lemon or fennel; shellfish pasta; fish stews; it harmonizes well with olive oil and lemon. Pasta and grains; seafood linguine, pasta with clams, mussels; couscous with grilled vegetables and light tomato-herb sauce. Grilled octopus, marinated artichokes; Sicilian antipasto plate with olives, capers, bottarga. Cheese—Fresh, mild cheeses; fresh ricotta, young pecorino; soft cow’s milk cheese, taleggio, stracchino. Cheese with briny or herbal note; pecorino fresco, Sicilian ricotta salata, mild goat’s milk cheese. Avoid very pungent, washed-rind, aged hard cheeses (aged parmigiano, intense blues.
