Deep ruby-purple color; cherry, blackberry preserves, plum, raspberry, strawberry marmalade, licorice, oak, violets, vanilla, black pepper, balsamic on the nose and palate.
Dry; mild, fine-grained, polished tannins; lively acidity (3.45 pH). Full body. Significant alcohol—16.5% ABV—but the effort achieves an impressive alcohol-acidity-tannin balance. Very concentrated with depth you don’t immediately expect from a barbera. Barbera typically is thought of as an “every day, easy drinker” in Italy’s Piedmont region. This completely shatters that mold, as do several other efforts from today’s quality-conscious makers in Piedmont. This is a serious, compelling, quality wine from the Nizza DOCG, now recognized as a center for quality barbera that is noted for finesse, balance, and age-worthiness.
The Barbera d’Asti (Asti is the closest significant city) grapes are hand-picked to 40-pound baskets. Maceration with short and soft pump overs. Full malolactic conversion. Aged 14 months in oak. Rich dark fruits dominate the initial attack and mid-palate, a slight bitterness and some alcohol heat appear over the horizon at the extended finish. Approachable now, but built for another 10 years of aging, which should give this more integration and roundness.
Piero Coppo founded the winery in 1892 in the town of Canelli in the Piedmont region of northwestern Italy. Piero focused on moscato d’Asti. His son, Luigi, expanded into classic still and sparkling wines using grapes native to Piedmont. Luigi also updated the winery to compete in the post-World War II market. Today, Pierro’s four grandsons manage the company and continue the family dream of expansion and integration of new styles.
In 1984, after the death of Luigi, the brothers decided to focus on barbera, the workhorse table wine of the region. Their interpretation of the grape—this Pomorosso—introduced the “modern style” of barbera with careful selection of grapes, reduced yields, and use of oak aging. Today, it is a source of regional pride. Coppo is considered a barbera specialist, but they also produce a quality moscato d’Asti (reflecting the winery’s origins more than a century ago) and an excellent gavi. The Coppo wine cellars were recognized in 2014 as a Unesco World Heritage Site.
Coppo Wine Cellars Pomorosso, Nizza DOCG 2021 delivers finesse, depth, and vibrant power. It is significantly more than a simple barbera table wine. Dense, fleshy, powerful, delicious. All that robes a serious alcohol punch (16.5% ABV) that is not instantly notable—a caution as you slurp down an inviting second glass. Pomorosso is a benchmark barbera made by a family winery with deep commitment to quality in the Piedmont. Pairing—full body and alcoholic warmth make this an ideal pairing with fatty cuts of red meat; grilled ribeye steak, lamb rib in pastry, baby back pork ribs. Duck confit, venison stew. Tagliatelle al ragù Bolognese (tomato acidity and slow-cooked meat richness). Porcini mushroom risotto. Pumpkin tortelli with sage butter. Cheese—Bettelmatt DOP from Val Formassa (Piedmont cheese; what grows together goes together); fontina val d’Aosta; pecorino romano, parmigiano reggiano. $54-65
