Medium straw color; apple, pear, banana, pineapple, white flowers, honeysuckle on the nose and palate.
Dry (<2 g/L RS); no noticeable tannins; fresh acidity (3.3 pH; 5.02 g/L TA). Light-medium body. Smooth, fruity. Silky mouthfeel. 100% viura (macabeo) grapes from Rioja Alta. Eight-hour cold maceration on the skins. Gentle press for free-run juice. Fermented in temperature-controlled stainless steel vats, no oak; vegan certified. Impressive length in mid-palate and finish. 13% ABV
Monopole is the oldest white wine brand in Spain, with production beginning in 1915. As the name implies, the viura grapes come from a single vineyard. The 2024 vintage was particularly difficult, with cold temperature and rain during budbreak and flowering, resulting in one of the smallest harvests in years—rivaling 2017. While the yields were low, the concentrated fruit was excellent.
The viura grape, as it is known in Spain (elsewhere it is macabeo), is ancient, resilient grape. Resiliency is important for vines growing in the fierce winds of La Rioja Alta. Often used as a blending grape to soften and balance, here it shines as a pure varietal play. The grape is extremely versatile. It can be crisp and citrusy in youth—although citrus is not pronounced in this effort—it also can be deep and nutty with age. This effort is made to drink young. Rioja is best known for its reds, but viura is elbowing its way into the story. It is called “Rioja’s quiet hero” because it does not seek acclaim, but discerning sippers can taste the Rioja sun and soil in a straw-pale gold pour.
CVNE stands for Compañia Vinicola del Norte de España (you also will see it spelled ‘CUNE’ and is pronounced “coo-nay”). The company was founded in 1879 in the town of Haro in Rioja. CVNE was founded by two brothers and today is still controlled by the direct descendants of the founding family. The French architect Aleixadre Gustave Eifell—of Eifell Tower fame—designed the winery’s first cellar using steel trusses so there are no columns. The company now comprises eight wineries and associated brands.
CVNE launched Monopole in 1915, the first registered white wine brand in Rioja. For decades, Monopole was a dry white with a quiet twist: the cellar masters would blend in a portion of very old, oxidative Manzanilla‐style wine from the bodega’s solera to add saline depth, nuts, and dried fruit complexity. This made Monopole simultaneously easy to drink and oddly profound—citrus and orchard fruit riding over a faint echo of the Andalusian coast, framed by gentle oak and long lees aging. In the 2000s, however, CVNE shifted its approach to simpler, young white wine—this effort. The old style still is made, labeled Monopole Clásico, but you are most likely to find this younger, simpler wine today.
CVNE Monopole Blanco Seco Rioja DOCa 2024 is clean, polished, brisk with tasty, concentrated apple-pear-banana fruit and excellent acidity. Smooth, enjoyable easy drinker with long mid-palate and finish. Lacks complexity, but is fun, easy quaffer. Pure viura (macabeo) grape effort. Built for seafood pairing. Enjoyable alternative to pinot gris/grigio and sauv blanc. $14-16
Pairing—Appetizer friendly; classic tapas, boquerones en vinagre, conservas (mussels, cockles, tuna), tortilla española, croquetas de jamón, pan con tomate, marcona almonds. Grilled or baked white fish; oysters, clams, mussels, crab cakes. Chilled gazpacho, vegetables terrines, spring salads with citrus or apple. Avoid heavy cream sauces, very spicy chili heat. Cheese—Fresh, soft young goat cheese, chèvre; fresh mozzarella, burrata, ricotta (plain or with drizzle of honey); bloomy rind, brie, camembert. Young manchego (not aged or salty versions); fontina, gruyère, lightly-aged asiago. Avoid strong blues, aged manchego, cheddar, parmesan; washed rind “stinky” cheese.
