Medium ruby color; cherry, raspberry, redcurrant cranberry, sage, rose petals, lavender, cinnamon, oak on the nose and palate.
Dry; fine, velvety tannins; significant, excellent balancing acidity (3.34 pH; 7.00 g/L TA). Light-medium body. Smooth, fresh, clean, polished, elegant texture. Restrained fruit. The grapes were picked before before over-ripening from historic vineyard long associated with Gary Farrell. The fruit came from two unique blocks: New River 777 and Old River Block. The first block ripened normally, but the Old River Block stalled while the health of vineyard master Joe Rochioli Jr. failed. The block did not fully ripen at first and was not picked until shortly after Joe’s death. The two sources, thus, were fermented individually and, the winery notes: “to blend them together with intent after barrel aging, lending respect to the vineyard and Joe’s enduring influence.” Aged 15 months in French oak, 40% new. 13.5% ABV
The label honors a legend. The winery notes: “The Rochioli Vineyard name is synonymous with the history of the Russian River Valley and the history of Gary Farrell Winery. The 162-acre Rochioli Vineyard was originally purchased in 1938 by Joe Rochioli Sr. At a time when Pinot Noir was virtually unknown in the Russian River Valley, Joe Rochioli Jr. was a pioneer in selecting the Pommard clone for initial plantings. The first wine produced under the Gary Farrell Winery label, in 1982, was Pinot Noir sourced from two of the Russian River Valley’s premier vineyards, Rochioli and Allen, which are adjacent to each other on Westside Road not far from Gary Farrell Winery, and which have both been meticulously farmed by Joe Rochioli Jr. for more than 40 years.”
Russian River Valley pinot typically is slightly richer, heavier than Burgundy and Oregon, but this effort leans more to the etherial, setting it slightly apart from previous Gary Farrell pinot noirs I have reviewed. This reflects Gary Farrell’s attention to subtlety and refinement. It also means sippers may have expected more depth and complexity for a wine at this price point—$100+. There certainly is nothing wrong with this wine, but may miss exceptional for some palates.
Theresa Heredia is the winemaker. She earned a biochemistry degree from Cal Ply, then continued to the chemistry and enology PhD program at U.C. Davis. She joined Gary Farrell in 2012 and has earned more than 400 90-plus scores for her Gary Farrell wines. Nancy Bailey is the general manager. She earned a masters in international relations at Tufts University and worked at marketing and management at wineries in Napa and Healdsburg before joining Gary Farrell. Heredia remained the head winemaker at Gary Farrell until 2024, when she transitioned to a consulting position with the winery.
Gary Farrell Rochioli Vineyard “Honoring a Legend” Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County 2022 is sleek, precise, elegant take on Russian River pinot noir. Tame tannins, sophisticated use of fruit gives this Burgundian comparisons. Fruit was the final crop from legendary winegrower Joe Rochioli Jr., and this elevated effort is testimony to Rochioli’s skill and the deep respect Gary Farrell winemakers had for him. Very nice wine, somewhat lacks complexity and wow factor you might seek at this price point, but fine wine nonetheless. $95-105
Pairing—Grilled or cedar-plank salmon, grilled ahi tuna, other oily fish; seafood and shellfish. Mild sausage, lamb, lighter pork dishes, pork tenderloin, quail. Roast chicken, turkey, duck, especially lighter preparations and richer preparations with fruit-based sauces. Stuffed mushrooms, mushroom risotto; butternut squash, Brussels sprouts, even asparagus. Cheese—Soft-ripened cheese will be classic, camembert; triple-cream, brillat-savarin. Semi-hard cheeses, gruyère, swiss cheese, aged gouda, moderately aged cheddar; slightly aged goat cheese (avoid fresh, which could overwhelm the wine’s delicate notes).
