Kaiken Disobedience by Francis Mallmann Red Blend, Mendoza, Argentina 2020

Deep ruby color; ripe plum, blackberry, cherry, spices, cedar, graphite, vanilla, dark chocolate on the nose and palate.

Kaiken Disobedience by Francis Mallmann Red Blend, Mendoza, Argentina 2020

Dry (2.27 g/L RS); supple, plush tannins; balancing acidity (3.65 pH; 3.80 g/L TA). Full body. Smooth, round. Blend of 60% malbec, 20% cabernet franc, 15% merlot, 5% cabernet sauvignon (the percentages change each vintage). The cab franc and cabernet sauvignon shape provide perplexity and color, while the malbec and merlot make for easy approachability and polish. Pre-fermentation maceration in temperature-controlled stainless steel for five days. Fermentation in concrete vats for 10 days using wild yeasts. Full malolactic conversion in vats. Aged up to 18 months in 30% new French oak, 70% in second and third use barrels. Held in bottle for six months before release. 14.5% ABV

The 2020 vintage was challenging. A warm, dry growing season increased demand for the 100% drip irrigation system and also reduced yield with fewer berries per cluster. That reduced quantity, helped quality. The year also was marked by the Covid-19 pandemic.

Francis Mallmann is noted on the label. The project commemorates a long‑term relationship between Mallmann and Kaiken Wines, including Mallmann’s restaurant presence at the Kaiken estate and cross‑promotion of his style with the winery’s portfolio. The wine is framed as a celebration of Mallmann’s “disobedient,” free-spirited, open-fire style as a world-renowned chef. Mallmann is the flavor and philosophy muse and does not participate directly in the winemaking.

Kaiken winery, barrel aging
Kaiken winery and vineyard

Kaiken Wines is part of Montes SA, a privately owned joint-stock company with diversified business operations in Chile through Montes Wines and Argentina through Kaiken Wines. Bodega Kaiken was built in 1920 by Italo Calise. Aurelio Montes arrived in Argentina in 2000 and purchased and began to bring Kaiken back to life in 2001. The Kaiken Winery is certified sustainable, certified organic, certified vegan, certified B Corporation. The winery runs on 100% renewable electricity, and repurposes or recycles 100% of its waste. Gustavo Hörmann is the general manager and chief winemaker at Kaiken. Juan Pablo Solis is the winemaker and Nicole Monteleone the agronomist engineer.

Kaiken Disobedience by Francis Mallman Red Blend, Mendoza, Argentina 2020 is juicy, round, and generous thanks to blend of malbec and merlot with backbone provided by cabernet franc and cabernet sauvignon. Darker fruits are prominent, tannins and oak are well behaved secondary notes. Plush, rich, palate pleaser. $28-34

Pairing—Grilled, roasted meats; ribeye, strip loin, skirt steak; lamb chops, lamb burgers, slow-roasted leg of lamb with rosemary and garlic. Asado-style sausages; chorizo, morcilla, spicy pork sausage. Beef or lamb braises, ossobuco-style shanks, slow-cooked short ribs with rich, savory sauce. Weeknight comfort foods; pizza (pepperoni, sausage, mushroom); pasta with meat sauces, lasagna, mushroom bolognese; tacos, carne asada, barbacoa, mushroom al pastor. Cheese—Aged cheddar (12-24 months), aged gouda (24+ months), manchego curado, aged parmigiano-reggiano (24+ months), pecorino toscano stagionato, aged comté (18-24 months). Blue cheeses, gorgonzola dolce, roquefort. Avoid fresh goat cheese, chèvre, feta, mozzarella, burrata; super funky washed rind cheese, taleggio/epoisses. Charcuterie add-ons—marcona almonds, toasted walnut, fig jam, cherry preserves, dried cherries, salami, soppressata, chorizo; dark chocolate (70%).

Kaiken Wines website

Kaiken tasting area
Kaiken vineyard