Deep ruby color; black cherry, black raspberry, plum, orange, peal, licorice, spice, herbs, saline-minerality on the nose and palate.
Dry; light tannins; appropriate acidity. Medium-plus body. Clean, simple, easy drinker. Grapes come from certified organic vineyard. Fermented in temperature-controlled stainless steel, full malolactic conversion, aged five months on the lees in stainless steel. No oak used in the making or aging, allowing Sicily’s signature red grape to take center stage. 14.5% ABV
Tenuta Gorghi is a fourth-generation, all-female winery, and the only winery in Sicily located entirely in the WWF Nature Reserve (World Wildlife Fund, not World Wide Fund for Nature). The story begins with Dora Sala, great-grandmother to the current owners. In the early 1900s, she rejected Sicilian gender stereotypes and purchased 320 acres of the Mazara del Vallo countryside. Dora appreciated the limestone-rich soil and proximity to the sea to grow high-quality grapes while most producers focused on quantity.
The female line continued with Dora’s daughter-in-law Agata, then to Doretta, and now to the current generation, sisters Annamaria and Clara Sala. Annamaria focuses on marketing, sales, and communications. Clara manages the administrative and operational elements of the winery. They launched the Tenuta Gorghi Tondi label to shift focus from marsala production to modern, fresh, dry still wines that reflect their terroir.
“Tenuta Gorghi Tondi” translates as “estate of round whirlpools” or “estate of round ponds.” It references three circular lakes on the estate. The lakes were formed by eroding limestone that created natural depressions that filled with fresh water. The lakes are protected by the WWF. The estate’s vineyards are integrated with the protected wetlands that are an important stopover for migratory birds flying between Europe and Africa.
The estate is certified organic. The proximity—a couple of miles—from the Mediterranean Sea delivers a touch of saline-minerality to the wine. While they grow Nero d’Avola and syrah, grillo is the winery’s signature grape, including Sicily’s only “muffato” (botrytized) sweet dessert wine, made possible by the humidity from the three lakes. The Coste a Preola label is named after the vineyard slopes facing the nature reserve. The label focuses on sustainability and varietal purity—thus the complete avoidance of oak in the winemaking.
Tenuta Gorghi Tondi Coste a Preola Nero d’Avola, Sicilia DOC 2023 is a simple, nice presentation of Nero d’Avola grown in the protected WWF nature preserve in western Sicily by the Sala sisters, the fourth generation of stereotype-busting female winemakers. This is a less-is-more statement. The wine sees no oak in order to present fresh, pure expression of Sicily’s signature red grape. It is a joyous dinner companion rather than the brooding, heavy red that Nero d’Avola can be. Good value. $17-20
Pairing—Pasta alla Norma—a signature Sicilian dish of fried eggplant and olive oil with tomato sauce and salty Ricotta Salata cheese; grilled lamb chops; salsiccia (fennel sausage); beef skewers (spiedini), grilled beef seasoned with olive oil and herbs; grilled tuna or swordfish; fish stew; mushroom risotto, grilled vegetables. Cheese—Pecorino Siciliano DOP, Ragusano DOP; Caciocavallo Silano, Ricotta Salata; Provolone Valpadana (piccante) or piccante provolone. Avoid fresh goat cheese, chèvre; creamy blue cheeses, triple crème brie, camambert.
