Wine has been a staple of food and culture for 8,000 years. It is not going away. But the wine industry’s exhilarating days of the past 50 years are fading. Let’s explore.
Gino Colangelo is the founder of Colangelo & Partners, a leading PR force in the wine, food, and spirits industry worldwide. I asked him about the state of the wine world today.
What are the biggest threats to the wine world?
Gino: “Depends on the day of the week. Tariffs are looming. Economic uncertainty is certainly an issue. But I still see the anti-alcohol movement as the biggest existential threat. If a 25-year old today decides that health risk starts at one glass of wine/day, what does that do to the lifetime consumption of that person? We need to fight back hard against the misinformation and propaganda surrounding wine and health. That’s why I started, together with esteemed wine writer Karen MacNeil and wine PR pro Kimberly Charles, two wine advocacy campaigns: “Come Over October” Link and “Share & Pair Sundays” Link . Both campaigns will be annual. Creating a positive narrative around wine will take years.”
Your wine elevator pitch?
Gino: “Wine has a unique ability to bring people of all ages and backgrounds together. Wine is social, cultural, historical and sustainable. Wine is good economics for rural populations—farmers —around the world. And, ultimately, wine is food. It belongs on the dinner table.”
Wine pricing?
Gino: “I think there will always be a place for sub-$10 wine but Americans are appreciating better wines—which is a good thing. Most of our clients are at $15-$25. That seems to be a strong part of the market. There is a lot of trading down now from $50+, for example, among large segments of the wine drinking population. Besides, there’s a world of very good and interesting wines at $15.”
Wine trends?
Gino: “I think rosé is trending down. Low/no-alcohol is certainly trending though there’s much work to be done on the quality/taste front. Thousands of vineyard acres are being ripped up in California. I think this is an inevitable correction in the supply of wine grapes. ‘Natural wine’ continues to trend among some demographics—though I still haven’t heard a clear definition of the category. Movement away from 15 percent+ wines to more restrained styles is a positive trend, I would say. Also, interest in indigenous varieties, whether that’s Saperavi from Georgia or Nero d’Avola from Sicily is still trending.”
Last round: Let’s eat kids. Let’s eat, kids. Commas are important. Wine time.