Three Sticks Pinot Noir Gap’s Pinnacle, Gap’s Crown Vineyard, Sonoma Coast 2021

Medium ruby-garnet color; raspberry, cherry, blueberry, red plum, strawberry, cranberry, black tea, chocolate, sage, saline on the nose and palate.

Three Sticks Pinot Noir Gap’s Pinnacle, Gap’s Crown Vineyard, Sonoma Coast 2021

Dry; supple, fine-grained tannins undergird excellent structure; congenial, excellent acidity (3.43 pH; 6.6 g/L TA). Medium body. Very impressive balance, depth, and complexity. This comes from what Three Sticks identifies as its “Heritage Vineyards” and notes they shepherd them: “with obsessive attention to detail and meticulous care in farming them. These Heritage Vineyards are, and forever will be, cornerstones of our fine chardonnay and pinot noir production.” 14.1% ABV

The 2021 vintage was a challenge with a very dry winter that required early irrigation. Cool weather made budbreak and flowering problematic. As a result, harvest was substantially challenging, with bunches having to be individually selected for ripeness. Harvest lasted from late August through September. The result was good fruit with particularly impressive tannin structure. The wine is 100% pinot noir. Fermented in open-top fermenters for 12 days, 23% whole cluster. Complete malolactic conversion. Barrel aged 14 months in 100% French oak, 48% new.

Three Sticks owns, farms, and produces every grape and every drop of wine from its own estate vineyards. The operation specializes in chardonnay and pinot noir. Ryan Prichard is the director of winemaking. Rob Harris is vice president in charge of vineyards. Prema Kerollis is the co-founder and general manager. Bill Price III is the proprietor, which reflects his ownership interests in Three Sticks Wines, Kistler Vineyards, Gary Farrell Winery, and Head High. The “three sticks” name comes from the nickname Price’s surfing buddies gave him when he was growing up in Hawaii—referring to the III at the end of his name.

Three Sticks Gap’s Crown Vineyard
Three Sticks Gap’s Crown Vineyard

Three Sticks wines are estate bottled, which is not a common thing. Three Sticks does so in order to control the entire process, from vine to bottle. According to the U.S. Alcohol & Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau: “Estate bottled means that 100 percent of the wine came from grapes grown on land owned or controlled by the winery, and both the winery and the vineyard must be located within the boundaries of the labeled viticultural area.” The majority of U.S. wineries are not allowed to put “estate bottled” on their labels.

Three Sticks Pinot Noir Gap’s Pinnacle, Gap’s Crown Vineyard, Sonoma Coast 2021 is the superb, complex pour you expect from Three Sticks. Excellent depth and balance of power and grace; fresh, lively, delicious. Exceptional California pinot, where assertive deliciousness reigns, as opposed to the more etherial delights of Willamette Valley. You do not have to favor one over the other, just be grateful the wine gods have blessed us with such wondrous options.$95 (and worth it)

Pairing—grilled duck breast with potato dauphinoise, spring vegetables, cherry juz; can stand up to more asseertive meat dishes than more bashful pinots; veal and mushroom marsala, smoked lamb shoulder, beef Bourguignon; braised or slow-cooked meats; slow-cooked brisket. Grilled pork chops; pork rillette with cornichons and whole grain mustard. Standard pairings—grilled, roasted, blackened salmon, other fleshy fish; roast turkey; cured meats on charcuterie board. Cheese—gruyère, brie, camembert, Moses Sleeper (cow’s milk cheese in brie style), taleggio; gouda, aged cheddar, aged manchego, aged pecorino.

Three Sticks Wines website

Three Sticks proprietor Bill Price III
Three Sticks co-founder and general manager Prema Kerollis
Three Sticks director of winemaking Ryan Prichard
Three Sticks vice president in charge of vineyards Rob Harris
BI
Three Sticks Gap’s Crown Vineyard