Mineral-driven chenin blanc from the Samur appelation in France’s Loire Valley. This effort presents chenin blanc’s tension and clarity rather than opulence or plush fruit. Bright and lively with engaging juxtaposition of slight bitterness, hint of honey, and saline minerality on mid-palate and extended finish. Clearly a food wine. Just moving into its best-drinking phase. $45-55
This effort is 100% chenin blanc—some Saumur Blancs have small additions of chardonnay or sauvignon blanc. The Saumur Valley is about halfway between Nantes and Tours. The fruit comes from a single, 2.5-acre parcel called Les Chapaudaises, roughly a third of a mile from the celebrated Bréze terroir. The soils are tuffeau-limestone, rich in calcium and laced with Cretaceous-era seashell fossils, which contribute to the wine’s hallmark salinity, minerality, and vertical structure. The vineyard is farmed organically, although it is not certified. The 2021 vintage was small, concentrating flavors. The grapes are hand-picked and whole-bunch pressed. Fermented in stainless steel with wild yeasts. Aged on the lees for 12 months in used barrels, then for five months in stainless steel. Aged in bottle for six months prior to release.
Owner-winemaker Brendan Stater-West was born in Oregon and moved to France in 2007 to teach English. And, also, because his French wife choose Paris over Portland. In two years, he transitioned to wine, studying in France. He became the right-hand person for renowned producer Romain Guiberteau in 2011. In 2015, he began producing his own wines focusing on organic farming and precise, terroir-driven expressions. Les Chapaudaises was Stater-West’s first release in 2015. His U.S. importer is Becky Wasserman.
Brendan Stater-West Saumur Blanc Les Chapaudaises, Loire Valley 2021: Medium gold color; yellow apple, pear, white peach, lemon, crushed-stone-saline minerality, hint of honey-beeswax on the nose and palate. Dry; no tannins; brisk, electric acidity (3.07-3.12 pH). Light-plus body. Best after a few years, which is why I am reviewing at five-years-old. Age, plus some air time in the glass, brings this around to harmony and some smoothness, although this remains a sharp chenin blanc with an intriguing tickle of bitterness alongside the hint of honey and the saline minerality. A lot going on mid-palate through satisfying finish. 12% ABV
Pairing—Grilled or steamed white fish (sole, cod, turbot) with brown butter or lemon-herb sauces; raw oysters, clams, seared scallops, grilled shrimp, crab cakes. Grilled or roasted chicken with lemon, herbs, or light cream sauce. Pork chops or pork tenderloin with apple or pear-based glazes. Coq au vin blanc or other cream-based white-wine braises. Risotto or pasta with cream, lemon, and peas or asparagus. Grilled or roasted fennel, leeks, or cauliflower with olive oil and herbs. Cheese—Fresh Loire goat cheeses, crottins, Sainte-Maure, ash-rind chèvres. Aged comté or similar Alpine cheeses. Mild, soft cheeses—milder brie-style. Avoid salty or pungent blues, very mild, bland cheeses.
Brendan Stater-West does not have a dedicated website. Instead, information is hosted on importer websites such as Becky Wasserman.
Becky Wasserman webpages about Brendan Stater-West
No photos available. All photographs on importer Becky Wasserman’s website are copyright protected.