Early Mountain Chardonnay, Quaker Run Vineyard, Virginia 2021

Serious Virginia white wine—all elegance, sophistication, and finesse. Extended lees aging—12 months in barrel, four-plus in stainless steel—gives it texture and depth. It is a persuasive argument that there is more to American wine than the West Coast and New York State. Virginia belongs in the conversation. $85

Early Mountain Chardonnay, Quaker Run Vineyard, Virginia 2021

The grapes come from Early Mountain’s estate Quaker Run Vineyard, a premier Virginia site. The 20 acres were planted in 1999. Early Mountain acquired the site in 2015. The mountainside vineyard sits at 1,000 feet, with well-draining, rocky soils, mixed mineralogy, a south/southeast-facing slope and consistent airflow—basically a checklist for a quality chardonnay vineyard.

Jean Case is a businesswoman, author, philanthropist, and owner of Early Mountain. She is married to Steve Case, founder of AOL. They originally were unimpressed with Virginia wine, but a wine-savvy friend convinced them to give their home state’s wine another shot. They did. They purchased the former Sweely Estate property in Madison, Virginia, in 2011, renovated, and opened Early Mountain in 2012 with Jean as the co-owner and project manager. As the winery notes, Case money bought the winery, but Jean was the one with the vision. Jean did the hiring and runs the estate; Steve mostly shows up as Jean’s husband in the winery context.

Jean calls herself “a philanthropist, investor and internet and impact investing pioneer who is a passionate believer in the power of business to do good.” Early Mountain directs profits toward strengthening Virginia communities, encouraging growth, innovation, and learning in the Virginia wine industry.

Maya Hood White is the winemaker and viticulturist. She earned an MS in viticulture and enology from UC Davis. Maya is an advocate of low-impact viticulture. She is one of the most visible young winemakers in the state and, in 2024, was nominated for Wine Enthusiast’s Wine Star “Winemaker of the Year” award and also recognized by VinePair’s “Next Wave Awards” in the same category. Julia Graves is the assistant winemaker. She earned an MS in vine, wine, and terroir management from École Supérieure d’Agricultures. Graves trained in viticulture in Spain, Italy, and France before completing her thesis at Fresno State University.

Early Mountain Vineyards assistant winemaker Julia Graves (l) and winemaker & viticulturalist Maya Hood White

Early Mountain Chardonnay, Quaker Run Vineyard, Virginia 2021: Medium gold-straw color; lemon curd, white stone fruit, starfruit, toasted bread, almond, honeysuckle, baking spice on the nose and palate.

Dry with bright acidity. Medium body; polished, velvety mouthfeel. 100% chardonnay, fermented with native yeasts. Slow fermentation, 12 months on the lees, in 132-gallon barrels (500L puncheons) with light and medium toasts, followed by four-plus additional months on the lees in stainless steel. Full malolactic conversion. Relies on texture, finesse, and the complexity and richness that come from extended lees contact. This is a refined chard, not a high-alcohol, massive fruit and butter bomb. 12.9% ABV.

Early Mountain Vineyards website

Early Mountain Vineyards winery exterior
Early Mountain Vineyards owner Jean Case
Early Mountain Vineyards fermentation tanks
Early Mountain Vineyards barrel aging
Early Mountain Vineyards tasting room
Early Mountain Vineyards outdoor tasting