Classic Chilean carménère, emphasizing dark fruits, concentration, and structure. Right now is the prime time to enjoy this effort from a very well-regarded winery and wine makers.
Carménère sometimes can seem like cabernet sauvignon’s awkward cousin at your party. That is not this one. It brings charm, good manners, and an engaging personality (particularly with a bit of time and air in the glass). If you cannot find this vintage, and after this much time that likely is the case, later releases are worth your attention. Viñedos Calcu is a very consistent maker. At $14-16, this is an absolute steal.
Calcu means “healing doctor” or “sorcerer” in Mapudungún, the language of the indigenous people of the Mapuche region of Chile. The winery’s mission is to create wines that emphasize the diversity of Chile’s Colchagua Valley. The Calcu winery was built in 2002. Their focus is sustainability and state-of-the-art technology. All wine is transported by gravity to preserve aromas and polyphenols. Fermentation vats are different sizes so each batch of juice is fermented separately. Temperatures are controlled using the winery’s geothermal plant.
Viñedos Calcu is a winery project associated with the Hurtado Vicuña family, who, following their experience in the production of premium wines at Viña Maquis, turned to producing a line of more affordable wines. Viñedos Calcu and Viña Maquis share the facility that produced this wine.
Ricardo Rivadeneira Hurtado is the executive director of Calcu, a position he assumed in 2019 after years as the general manager and winemaker. He studied in London and Santiago and earned degrees in agronomy and winemaking. He then worked at Charles Krug in Napa and Chateau Branaire-Ducru in France. He became the general manager of Viñedos Calcu in 2004. The Drinks Business recognized him as a “Master Winemaker Top 100” in 2024. He also is co-owner of the enterprise through the Hurtado Vicuña family.
Rodrigo Romero is the head winemaker. He has been doing the hands-on cellar work since 2013. Romero has a degree in agronomy from Universidad Católica de Valparaíso with a specialization in fruit farming and postgraduate studies in wine technology and production. He has worked at several Chilean wineries, also at Pierre Bourée Domain, Patrick Piuze Domain and Jean Marc Brocard in Burgundy, France; at the Franciscan Estate Winery in Napa; and several wineries in Italy.
Viñedos Calcu Grand Reserva Carménère, Colchagua Valley, Chile 2019: Deep ruby color; plum, blackberry, black cherry, raspberry, blackcurrant, rosemary, cinnamon, bell pepper, vanilla, oak spice on the nose and palate. Dry; soft tannins; cleansing, balancing acidity. Medium-plus body; silky mouthfeel. Nicely extended, fruity finish with some herbaceous (bell pepper) notes. Impressive value play of Chile’s signature red grape. 13.5% ABV
Blend of 92% carménère, 4% cabernet franc, 4% petit verdot from Marchigüe in Colchagua Valley, the heartland of Chile’s carménère production. Clear emphasis on dark fruit flavors. Hand-picked fruit fermented in stainless steel, aged 12 months in French oak barrels. Clean, balanced; classic Chilean gran reserva. The 2019 vintage faced drought challenges that reduced yield and improved concentration and structure, abetting aging potential. The wine hits its best-drinking phase in 2026 and 2027. If you have a bottle, now is the time to pull the cork.
Pairing—Grilled lamb chops with rosemary, lamb burgers, herb-rubbed pork tenderloin, carne asada, roasted or grilled chicken with Mediterranean herbs, chicken mole, beef empanadas, short ribs. Chili con carne, Mexican and Tex-Mex fare with moderate heat, smoky sausage. Mushroom risotto, lentil stews, black-bean dishes. Pizza with spicy sausage or roasted vegetables. Cheese—Aged manchego, comté, gruyère, aged gouda. Semi-firm cheese, Monterey Jack, young cheddar, smoked cheddar.
