Tuscan version of a Southern Rhône GSM (Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre), in this case dominated by Syrah. Serious dark fruit flavors. Not an accommodating easy-drinker, best deployed alongside hearty food after time in air. $20-28
Blend is 85% Syrah, 10% Grenache, 5% Mourvèdre from certified organic and Demeter-certified biodynamic vineyards. Fermentation and initial aging in concrete vats and terracotta amphorae, followed by 14 months in French oak barrels, 20% new. This is a Super Tuscan made using Southern Rhône varieties rather than Bordeaux grapes. Syrah’s richness and power are only slightly tamed by Grenache’s savory and herbal qualities and Mourvèdre’s (Monastrell) darkness and body. If you are not into powerful, assertive red wines, this is not for you. If those characteristics are in your gastronomic wheelhouse, especially paired with an emphatic slab of beef, pull cork on this big boy.
The power here is forceful fruit, not puckering tannins or intricate complexity. This is especially true in the amazingly long finish; after 15 seconds you begin to question if you really swallowed the whole sip. Tannic structure is not a signature. Pushy Syrah abetted by the smoky, gamey boldness of Mourvèdre and the herbal nudge of Grenache is the point of this wine. While it is a GSM, the “S” is the burly bully in this pour; G and M play supporting-but-noticeable roles. This has much more Syrah than previous vintages by this maker.
The wine is a collaboration between Italian winemaker Stefano Casadei and American winemaker Fred Cline. They hit it off after meeting and realized a shared dream of growing international grapes in Italy while respecting the environment. Their place: slopes leading to the Metalliferous Hills west of Siena and less than a dozen miles from the sea. Their joint effort would embrace safeguarding nature, protecting the ecosystem, and using an approach called “BioIntegrale” in Italy, which is similar to biodynamic viticulture elsewhere.
Just as they are all-in on muscular Syrah, they are all-in on holistic winemaking. Animals work the vineyards. Horses pull plows guided by humans, geese and sheep keep the ground neat. No synthetic chemicals. Replenishment of biological matter. Natural waste disposal. Nourish the soil rather than the vines. The comprehensive approach also includes the community, according to their website, by employing local labor and neighborhood enterprises and making use of domestic resources to redistribute wealth and support local culture.
Casadei Sogno Mediterraneo Blend Rosso, Toscana IGT 2022: Deep ruby color; blackberry, blackcurrant, blueberry, black plum, sweet spice, black pepper, dark chocolate, tobacco, Mediterranean herbs, balsamic on the nose and palate. 14% ABV
Dry; well-integrated tannins; medium-plus acidity. Medium-plus body. Serious wine for a serious wine drinker. Benefits from air, and likely just entering its drinking window after four years. Improves on the second day after time and air sanded its fiercest elements.
Pairing—Robust fare; wild game, meat stews, grilled or roast lamb with rosemary/thyme; duck, pigeon, guinea fowl; beef and pork stews, braised short ribs, osso buco with tomato base; pasta with ragù (wild boar, sausage, beef). Cheese—Aged Tuscan Pecorino or Pecorino Romano; Parmigiano-Reggiano, Grana Padano; aged Cheddar, Manchego, aged Gouda. Avoid mild cheeses, chèvre, ricotta, fresh mozzarella.
