Excellent, affordable sangiovese winner from a historic Montepulciano estate that has reinvented itself over the past 15 years as one of Tuscany’s flagship terroir-driven producers. $25-30
The wine is a product of a challenging vintage, weather-wise, compounded by the aftershocks of the Covid pandemic. Early spring was unusually hot, spurring vines to early bud break, only to be slapped down by a late frost that killed off many of the precocious sprouts. Such is the fate of vines and winemakers. While painful in terms of quantity, these events often yield a later benefit in quality. That is the case here. Summer was mild. Reserves of winter rains in the soil fortunately mitigated nature’s parsimonious allotment of rainfall. Grapes ripened properly—grapevines are serious survivors who generally soldier through no matter what fates are hurled at them. Thus, this impressive sangiovese.
Avignonesi was founded in the 1970s with a vision of the future. As their website notes, “We plant trees under whose shade we will never sit.” Today, the Saverys family owns some 740 acres between Montepulciano and Cortona. All wines are made with estate-grown fruit cultivated according to organic and biodynamic principles.
Avignonesi is certified organic by Ecocert and Suolo e Salute. Certified biodynamic through Biodyvin. It also holds B Corp certification, recognizing social and environmental performance, accountability, and transparency. It has also received The Wine Advocate’s Green Emblem, acknowledging ongoing environmental and biodiversity commitments. For some, such certifications are irrelevant—tell me how the wine tastes, not this marketing mumbo jumbo. OK, the wine is excellent—James Suckling scored it 95 points, if scores matter to you. For others, such commitments to the environment and ethics enhance your appreciation of a noteworthy bottle of wine.
Virginie Saverys established the modern estate in 2009 and led the estate’s transformation into a biodynamic flagship. In 2024, she handed off the reins to her children, Basile Aloy and Eline Aloy. Both generations insist agriculture comes before everything else. Great wines are made in the vineyard; the cellar serves as midwife to what terroir and nature’s luck deliver.
Avignonesi Nobile di Montepulciano, Toscana Biologico DOCG 2021: Deep ruby color; cherry, plum, pomegranate, orange zest, tomato leaf, clove, mint, smoke, pepper, black tea, violets, lavender on the nose and palate.
Dry; velvety, seamless tannins; good balancing acidity. Medium-plus body. Elegant, balanced, fresh. 100% sangiovese (Prugnolo Gentile) from vines 12 to 38 years old. Juice experienced 20–25 days of cold-soak maceration (soaking on the skins before fermentation). Fermented with native yeasts. Aged 18 months in large Slavonian oak barrels and tonneaux—132-gallon oak barrels. Just entering its best drinking window. Tannins somewhat softened, but consider decanting or extended swirling in a large glass. After air, this becomes wonderfully supple and downright delicious. 14.5% ABV
Pairing—Red meats, rustic and a bit fatty; grilled ribeye, lamb chops, veal chops. Game and braises: wild boar ragù, beef short ribs braised in red wine, pork shoulder with herbs. Pasta, lasagne al forno, risotto con porcini or truffles. Lentil stews, grilled eggplant and peppers, eggplant parmigiana, herb-roasted root vegetables. Cheese—Pecorino Toscano (aged, semi-aged), Pecorino di Pienza; parmigiano reggiano, grana padano (ideally aged 2–3 years), asiago, manchego viejo, aged cheddar. Skip soft, bloomy cheeses such as brie and camembert, and strong blues such as gorgonzola and roquefort.
