Medium straw-gold color; Meyer lemon, lime, orange zest, pear, white peach, white flowers, minerality-sea spray on the nose and palate.
Dry; no tannins; impressively decent acidity (6.5 g/L TA)—acidity can be difficult to attain with godello, and was especially challenging in 2020 whites in Spain. Medium-plus body. The 100% godello grapes come from the winery’s A Malosa vineyard. Manual harvest, followed by cold maceration. Wine aged on the lees in stainless steel tanks. Impressive fruit, just hint of oak from short time in large oak barrels. Full, rich mouthfeel. 13.5% ABV
The Virgen del Galir winery started as a small family-owned winery in 2002. Between 2017 and 2018, it was acquired by Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España (CVNE). The website notes: “The Galir Valley falls under the Valdeorras DO (designation of origin). The winery’s philosophy is to make wines that reflect the values of the land whilst respecting local traditions. This begins with the winery’s name, a tribute to Our Lady of Galir, the protector of the region’s vineyards.
“In recent years, several vineyards have been replanted and recovered in the Galir and Bibei Valleys to produce a complete range of villa (“terroir”), parcela (plot of land) and gran cru wines. The white wines of Virgen del Galir are made with grapes from the Galir Valley, an area with a lot of slate and vineyards at high altitude. The red wines are harvested from vines grown on granite soil, from plots in the Galir and Bibei Valleys.”
The godello grape is a remarkable comeback saga. Nearly extinct, it now is one of Spain’s most celebrated white wines. In the 1970s, the vines were counted in the hundreds. Today, there are some 2,500 acres of godello, and it is considered a premium varietal capable of expressing unique terroir characteristics with distinctive minerality. It primarily is cultivated in the Galicia region of northwestern Spain, where Bodegas Virgen del Galir is located. The grape has ancient roots; Pliny the Elder (23-79 CE) mentioned it. Written documentation of “godello” first appeared in 1531.
The phylloxera epidemic in the late 19th and early 20th century ravaged Galician vineyards. When winegrowers replanted, they focused on high-yielding grape varieties instead of quality-focused indigenous ones. Palomino replaced godello. Salvation came from the efforts of Horacio Fernández Presa and Luis Hidalgos who launched the REVIVAL project to restructure vineyards in the Valdeorras region, with specific emphasis on godello. This wine is a result. The Valdeorras DO is the heartland of godello. DNA analysis shows a close relationship with verdejo in Portugal, but has no close relationship to the verdelho variety cultivated in the island of Madeira. Such is complexity of wine.
Bodegas Virgen del Galir Pagos del Galir A Malosa Godello, Valdeorras DO, Spain 2020 is a premium white wine made with Spain’s come-back grape. Excellent taste and body. Elegant, subtle, wonderfully reflects the rugged terroir of the Valdeorras DO, especially its minerality. A must-try white from northwestern Spain. $15-21
Pairing—seafood is classic with wine with salinity and minerality, and Galicia has a maritime gastronomy—what grows together goes together; scallops, pan-seared and scallops thermidor; lobster, crab; pulpo gallego (Galician-style octopus); pan-seared, grilled, baked halibut, sea bass, barramundi, flounder; seafood paella (Spanish rice dish with seafood). White meats; roasted chicken and turkey; herb-crusted roast chicken; simple pork dishes, grilled pork, pork tenderloin. Roasted root vegetables. Cheese—manchego, idiazabal (Basque smoky sheep’s milk cheese), camembert, munster; comté, cheddar; fresh goat cheese spread on crusty bread.
Bodegas Virgen del Galir website, includes 3D tour
