Cantina Kurtatsch Müller Thurgau, Südtirol, Alto Adige DOC 2021

Pale gold color; peach, white apple, nutmeg, herbs, peppermint, lemon-lime, minerals–flint on the nose and palate.

Cantina Kurtatsch Müller Thurgau, Südtirol, Alto Adige DOC 2021

Off-dry; no tannins, medium acidity. Light body. Vibrant, easy-going, very easy drinker. Fun white. Forget your experiences with müller thurgau a half century ago. Both German and Italian winemakers have moved well past that. This is a quality, versatile wine. It is one of only a few wines that pair well with asparagus and artichokes and potato chips. 12.5% ABV

Müller Thurgau is a cross between riesling and madeleine royal. The grape was bred in Geisenheim, Germany (in the Rheingua region) in 1882 by Professor Hermann Müller from Thurgau, Switzerland, from which the grape got its name in 1913. It is prolific and the second-most planted grape, behind Riesling, in Germany, where it helped revive the German wine industry after World War II. Unfortunately, in the 1970s it was most associated with bland, cheap, sweet liebfraumilch—Blue Nun was the big seller. Today, müller thurgua is made into much higher quality wines. Alto Adige, on the Swiss-Austrian-Liechtenstein border in northern Italy grows a significant amount of the grape and is where this effort comes from.

Cantina Kurtatsch winery
Cantina Kurtatsch cellar

Cantina (“cellar” in German) Kurtatsch is one of the oldest wine cooperatives in Alto Adige, founded at the beginning of the 20th century. With 190 families in the co-op, Kurtatsch proudly asserts it remains family-oriented and down-to-earth. The website notes of its members: “For generations, they have cultivated a special connection to their vineyards, and know every single grapevine. This invaluable knowledge, paired with the small structure of our winery, offers the best prerequisites for the production of unique, characterful wines.”

The co-op focuses—“lives” in their view—on sustainability. The website notes: “The goal: sustainability in all areas—from the work in the vineyard through to the final product. During the year, we are in continuous exchange with our members to advise and support. Sustainability is also a topic in the cellars: continuing education and optimizing guarantee sustainably designed work methods.”

Cantina Kurtatsch president Andreas Kofler

Cantina Kurtatsch Müller Thurgau, Südtirol, Alto Adige DOC 2021 is an off-dry, and almost dry, expression of a grape that had a reputation for semi-sweet plonk 50 years ago (think Blue Nun). No more. This is fresh, friendly, light, versatile quality wine from one of the oldest wine cooperatives in northern Italy. Peach, white apple, citrus pleasure your palate in a demure, coyly seductive style. Plus, this actually pairs with asparagus, artichokes, and potato chips—territory where few wines dare to tread.

Excellent aperitif. Pair with shellfish; lean fish; sushi; grilled chicken; grilled pork; asparagus—a classic pairing; artichoke; pasta; appetizers and snacks—charcuterie board; spicy food; vegetarian fare. Cheese—light cheeses; fresh goat cheese; young cheddar. $15-20

Kurtatsch Kellerei website

Cantina Kurtatsch core team
Cantina Kurtatsch team
Cantina Kurtatsch vineyards
Cantina Kurtatsch vineyards