Christmas wine

While turkey is common at many Christmas feasts, gobbler does not claim sine qua non roost it enjoys at Thanksgiving.

That in mind, suggestions for your non-turkey repast. Wines widely available and wallet-friendly.

Beef brisket, a West Texas favorite, also is traditional Hanukkah meal paired with potato latkes and sour cream. Prime rib roast is English tradition. Beef tenderloin pleases Christmas crowds and leftovers make good sandwiches next day. Beef pairings:

• Bodega Norton Malbec. Creamy, blackberries, cocoa, mocha. Argentina (where Christmas happens in high summer). $10

• Calvet-Thunevin Cuvée Constance. Enormous value; liqueur richness, chocolate, coffee; pure fruits. France. $16

Ham, Christmas tradition in the South, pairs with rosé, white wine, and bubbly—putting smiles on faces of folks who rebel against reds. Ham pairings:

• Kim Crawford Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. Vivid expression, minerality [cq] and tangy acidity pairs with sweetness of honey-cured ham. New Zealand. $19

• Korbel Brute Rosé. Crisp, refreshing, affordable bubbly; color of wine matches color of meat. $12

Italians celebrate Christmas with feast of seven fishes, inspired by seven sacraments of Catholic Church. Fare usually includes shellfish, a fish soup or stew, and roasted/grilled fish. Fish pairings:

• L’Ecole No. 41 Columbia Valley Vineyards Chardonnay. Burgundy style; pure fruits. Washington. $22

• Becker Vineyards Viognier. Grape varietal seemingly made for Texas terroir; enjoy the peaches. $16

By Dickens, Tiny Tim enjoyed goose—you can, too. Try a gander at alternative bird with darker, richer, gamier meat. Goose pairings:

• Roc de Château Vleux Vouvray. Chenin Blanc; pears and almonds, semi-dry. France. $14

• B&G Vouvray. Ripe melons, subtle and enjoyable finish. France—with screw cap. $12

Whatever you eat or drink, may your Christmas be a feast of love and joy.