Medium ruby color; black plum, blackberry, sour cherry, red currant, chocolate, coffee, light oak, spice, black pepper on the nose and palate.
Dry; medium-plus tannins and acidity. Medium-plus body. Somewhat rustic and earthy with a meaty, savory mouthfeel. 100% aglianico grapes, dry farmed, hand-harvested. Fermented in stainless steel, aged 18 months in oak. Aglianico is a workhorse grape in southern Italy. In this Chilean iteration, tannins are less pronounced and wine less earthy, although those elements are present. The aglianico vines came from Italy and were grafted to existing 60-year-old Chilean rootstock. Gillmore produces wines with a range of labels; their del Maule brand showcases Italian varietals. 14.5% ABV
In Italy, aglianico wine often is called the “Barolo of the South” because of its structure and aging potential. Aglianico, sangiovese, and nebbiolo are considered the three greatest red wine varieties in Italy. In Italy, aglianico is noted for its high tannins and acidity—thus its structure and aging potential. This Chilean effort dials back both, but this still has noticeable tannins after five years and balancing acidity. In Italy, aglianico wines usually reach their best after 10-plus years of age. The Gillmore effort is ready to drink now, but it, too, will improve with age.
Francisco Gillmore, a visionary Chilean industrialist and businessman, started Gillmore Wines in 1990 after acquiring the century-old Tabontinaja winery with its ancient, dry-farmed vines. Francisco made a strategic decision to graft French and Italian varieties on the existing ancient país vine rootstocks. The original Tabontinaja buildings remain and some of the vines are grafted on rootstock more than 100 years old. Since 1999, Gillmore Wines also has owned Laurel Lake Vineyards on Long Island, New York.
Gillmore is a multi-generational family business led by Francisco’s daughter, Daniella Gillmore. Daniella is an agricultural engineer by training with a love of country life and deep understanding of viticulture and commitment to wildlife conservation. Daniella’s husband, Andrés Sánchez, is the chief winemaker and creative leader of the portfolio. Andrés is notable in Chilean viticulture and has an international reputation. He has worked and been a consultant in California and Italy. His philosophy centers on interpreting “the soul of the sector and its people.” The third generation, Daniella and Andrés’s two children, Martin and Dominga, are assuming more responsibilities in the operation.
Viña Gillmore is among the founding members of MOVI (Independent Vintner’s Movement) in Chile. The Gillmore operation is relatively small, thus their work to establish MOVI in 2009. MOVI serves as a platform for small-scale, artisanal winemakers to work together to purchase, market, and promote their wines on an international scale. The movement strives to challenge the misconception that the Chilean wine industry lacks personality and diversity. This wine fits nicely into that mission.
Gillmore Wines Aglianico del Maule, Valle del Loncomilla, Chile 2020 is a Chilean take on the esteemed red grape of southern Italy. Assertive red and black fruit flavors are framed by tannins and acidity that are somewhat dialed back from what you expect from an Italian aglianico, but still important to the character of the wine. Excellent QPR. $17-20
Pairing—Well-marbled beef, prime rib, ribeye chargrilled or pan-seared with minimal manipulation; braised short ribs, slow-cooked beef brisket; dry-aged T-bone, New York strip with peppercorn crust. Grilled of slow-cooked lamb, slow-roasted or braised lamb shoulder with Mediterraneans herbs (thyme, oregano, rosemary), lamb shanks braised in tomato-based ragu, grilled rack of lamb or lamb steaks, lamb chops from a wood-fire grill. Barbecue, spare ribs, short ribs with dry rubs, carne asada or grilled steak with smoky seasoning, smoked brisket, pulled pork, grilled sausage. Game, venison steaks or burgers, grilled or braised wild boar, duck breast or confit, rabbit stew with mushrooms. Roasted portobello mushrooms, truffle risotto, mushroom ravioli. Cheese—Aged parmigiano-reggiano is classic; aged pecorino romano, pecorino toscano, pecorino gran riserva; aged asiago, aged provolone; aged or reserva manchego; aged (8-10 years) extra sharp cheddar, aged gouda. Avoid fresh cheeses; bloomy-rind (brie, camembert); young, mild cheeses; blue cheeses.
