A great find—a Chianti with this much delicious balance and classic, food-friendly profile at an excellent price point. Made by one of the major players in the Chianti Classico region between Florence and Siena, this is an impressive Chianti Classico. $22-30
Chianti Classico rules require at least 80% Sangiovese. This is made with 100% Sangiovese from estate vineyards near Siena (the commune of Castelnuovo Beradenga) on limestone-rich soils at an elevation of around 1,300 feet. The 2021 growing season experienced a mild, dry winter, but April cold snaps somewhat reduced yields in the region. Such events may test winegrower’s mettle, but often improve wine quality by thinning fruit and concentrating vine attention to surviving clusters. The effect on San Felice was marginal. Spring brought ample rain, setting the vineyards up for a warm summer. Such summers promote ripening of the relatively thin-skinned Sangiovese grape. Harvest went well from mid-September into early October.
Grapes fermented on the skins for 18-20 days in temperature-controlled stainless steel (28-30º C; 82-86º F), followed by malolactic conversion in stainless steel. The wine was aged 24 months: 80% in 60- and 90-hectoliter Slavonian oak casks (1,585 and 2,378 gallons) and 20% in 225-liter (about 60 gallons) French oak barrels, followed by six months in bottle before release.
Located in Tuscany south of Florence and north of Siena, the Chianti region is noted for rolling green hills, and picturesque medieval villages, castles, churches, vineyards, and olive groves. “Chianti Classico” refers to a specific growing area; its wines are identified by a distinctive black rooster on the neck of the bottle.
The San Felice winery has a history dating back centuries. The estate is named for an early Christian saint and originally was owned by the Grisaldi del Taja family. Descendants of the family were among the founding members of the Chianti Classico consortium, a key group in Italian wine history. Beginning in 1968, visionary winemaker Enzo Morganti took over estate management. He spent two decades researching Sangiovese clones and began reshaping the estate with a focus on high-quality winemaking.
Today, San Felice includes three Tuscan estates: Chianti Classico, source of these grapes; Montalcino, south of Siena; Bolgheri, on the Tuscan coast. Production reaches 1.2 million bottles—more than one million of Chianti Classico, 80,000 of Brunello, 40,000 of Rosso di Montalcino, and 55,000 of Bolgheri. All San Felice wines are made using estate-owned grapes. San Felice is a leader in sustainable viticulture, moving toward regenerative and organic. The winery is energy self-sufficient with solar panels and has reduced bottle weights to minimize carbon emissions.
San Felice Il Grigio da San Felice Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021: Deep ruby-garnet color; tart red cherries, plum, cranberry, violets, tobacco, earth, crushed stone minerality, spice on the nose and palate.
Dry (<0.5 g/L RS); fine tannins and excellent, tangy acidity (5.7 g/L TA). Medium-plus body. Substantial structure, thanks to tannins that evolve with air into a polished texture, pairs with appropriate balancing acidity. The effect is streamlined and linear, not thick or plush. Its extended finish emphasizes tart red cherry and black cherry with refined tannins (especially if the wine has spent time in your glass or was decanted). 13.5% ABV
Pairing—Grilled steak—Bistecca alla Fiorentina above all—is the classic match; Tuscan sausage with white beans; meat-sauced pasta; roasted or grilled lamb; roast squab, duck, goose; rich, fatty roasted pork or slow-braised veal; porcini or truffle mushroom risotto. Cheese—Aged Pecorino Toscano, the classic cheese match; aged Parmigiano Reggiano; hard, aged cheeses in general.
