Fresh, vibrant “baby Barolo” from a Serralunga d’Alba estate that also makes classic Barolo. In this case, the winemakers work to tone down tannins during fermentation, then forgo oak contact. The result is a young, light, drinker-friendly nebbiolo that shuns the raw power and extreme ageability the grape can attain. $25-35
Tenuta Cucco is part of a family operation. It became part of Tenimenti Rossi Cairo, the holding company that oversees the agricultural activities of the family, in 2015. The family brought its organic/biodynamic philosophy from La Raia to Serralunga d’Alba to the Cru Cerrati vineyard, and the estate gained organic certification in 2018. The winery sits near an extraordinary stronghold, the Castle of Serralunga d’Alba, which is reflected in its logo.
The winery and vineyards have a long history. In 1966, the Cappellano family sold Tenuta Cucco to the Stroppiana family. The Stroppiana family built the first winery; prior to that, grapes from the property were sold to other producers. The website notes: “In January 2015, the estate passed to the Rossi Cairo family, which for more than 20 years has run the organic and biodynamic farm La Raia in Novi Ligure.” The family brought the same philosophy to Comune di Serralunga d’Alba vineyards.
The nebbiolo grape name comes from the Italian “nebbia”—fog—a nod to the autumn mists in the Piedmont hills in northwestern Italy. The mist is particularly present during harvest in October and early November. The earliest documentary evidence of the wine dates to 1272, when king of England received wine gifts, but its story dates earlier than that. In the 19th century, Camillo Benso, Count of Cavour, modernized his family’s estate by improving its winemaking techniques (at the same time, he was a driving force behind Italian unification). Simultaneously, Giulia Colbert de Maulévrier, Marchioness of Barolo, was refining her winemaking program. Together they were central figures in the creation of the first Barolos, now known as the “classic style.”
Nebbiolo is a difficult grape. Early budding, late ripening, demanding long periods of sunshine, and favored sites. It has robust tannins and balancing high acidity, which generally means Barolos are best after years, even decades, of aging when made in the classic style. This particular effort aims to muffle the tannins, allowing nebbiolo’s red fruits to shine and the wine to be enjoyed young. This winemaking technique—part of what is sometimes called the “modern style”—caused boisterous Barolo debate (the “Barolo Wars”) in the late 1970s and 1980s over shorter maceration times and the role of oak. The arguments simmered down, and today several Barolo makers, such as Tenuta Cucco, make nebbiolo wine in several styles. The Tenuta Cucco effort is notable for using stainless steel exclusively in the making. Other “modern styles” use smaller oak barrels; both aim for nebbiolo wines that are drinkable much earlier than the classic Barolo.
Tenuta Cucco Langhe Nebbiolo DOC 2023: Medium garnet color; sour cherry, strawberry, raspberry, redcurrant, spice, cocoa, violets, rose petals, a dash of saline-minerality on the nose and palate.
Dry; subtle tannins thanks to fermentation in stainless steel with early separation of the juice from the skins before fermentation ends to avoid tannin extraction; bright acidity. Full malolactic conversion. No contact with oak. Light-medium body. The minerality edge appears on the finish to round out the youthful experience. Works better with food than sipped solo. The estate deliberately set out to make a lighter, approachable young nebbiolo to contrast with their classic Barolo offerings. They succeed. Call this “baby Barolo.” Unlike “adult Barolos,” this is ready to drink now, made for tonight’s table rather than your heirs. 14% ABV
Pairing—Tagliatelle or pappardelle pasta with ragù (beef, pork, or mixed); lasagne with spicy sauce. Roast or braised veal, lamb chops, pork shoulder, grilled sausage; risotto with sausage or mushrooms. Pizza—this is a weekday, younger brother to Big Barolo. Cheese—Parmigiano-reggiano, Fontina d’Aosta, taleggio; Castelmagno (a blue-veined Piedmontese cheese—what grows together goes together).
