Rich, well-made pour from the Monson Family, one of the major players in Washington State and Pacific Northwest wines. Dark fruits. Its tannins have mellowed after four years, but this still has a bit more bite than expected from a mid-shelf Merlot. That is offered as praise rather than criticism. Good value at $18-22.
Among the Giants is a Goose Ridge Vineyards label for its estate wines from the Goose Gap AVA. The label is part of Destination Brands, a collection of brands under the ownership and operation of the Monson Family. All Destination Brands wines are certified Sustainable WA Grapes and Salmon Safe. The Goose Ridge Estate property is their flagship estate.
Geographically, Washington State is two states. It is a temperate rainforest west of the Cascade Mountains along the Pacific coast. You think Seattle, you think rain. It is an arid desert in the eastern part, where water comes from the mighty Columbia River, not out of the sky almost every day. Goose Ridge is in the arid desert of southeastern Washington and one of the largest vineyards in the Pacific Northwest.
The winery describes its property as a gently sloped roughly 1,800-acre vineyard that receives less than eight inches of rainfall annually. Vines are planted on their own roots in small lots on slopes for maximum sun. Grapes are farmed for low yields. Vineyard crews carefully select the best blocks for shoot, leaf, and cluster-thinning throughout the growing season to achieve ideal ripeness and flavor at harvest.
The Monsons emphasize sustainability. Cover crops of wheat and barley are planted in alternate years with natural vegetation. This helps control erosion, choke back weeds and enrich the soil. It also promotes a habitat for beneficial predators such as burrowing owls, songbirds, bats and others, which are further encouraged with nesting houses and natural habitats and corridors throughout the estate.
M.L. Monson brought his family to the Yakima Valley in the early 1900s. His initial focus was on cattle, later apples and cherry orchards. In 1998, M.L.’s son, Arvid, began establishing vineyards with guidance from Walter Clore (considered the father of Washington State wine), which led to the founding of Goose Ridge Estate Vineyard & Winery. In the years since, the family has remained true to the vision of M.L. and Arvid, led by Arvid’s three children, Bill, Molly, and Valerie, and Bill’s son, Taylor. Bill Monson, Arvid’s son, notes: “My sisters and I grew up with the understanding you don’t farm for this generation, you farm for the next one. We believe the same principles apply to our family winery.”
Among the Giants Estate Merlot, Goose Gap AVA, Washington 2022: Deep ruby color; black cherry, red plum, blackberry, strawberry, black tea, chocolate, earth, baking spices on the nose and palate.
Dry (1.69 g/L RS); semi-soft Merlot tannins with hint of bite (it was more grippy when released); moderate acidity (3.79 pH, 5.70 g/L TA). Full body with plush, supple, dense mouthfeel. Acidity helps avoid jamminess. Long, savory finish. Blend of 97% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Sauvignon, all estate-grown in Goose Gap AVA. Grapes come from selected, low-yield parts of the property planted north-to-south to maximize sun exposure. Fermented with native yeast. Aged 18 months in the winery’s smoothest, richest French oak barrels. 14.5% ABV
Pairing—Grilled, roasted lamb with rosemary; duck breast with cherry or plum reduction; veal, braised short ribs; smoked brisket with light rub; venison backstrap; roast pork loin with dried-fruit stuffing. Herb-roasted chicken; Thanksgiving turkey with cornbread-mushroom stuffing; chicken-fried quail. Pizza, burgers with caramelized onions. Avoid delicate fish, heavy chili heat. Cheese—Aged gouda, young Comté, Fontina Val d’Aosta, Gruyère, Beemster Classic; Manchego, Ossau-Iraty, lightly smoked Idiazábal. Avoid very fresh/tangy goat cheese, heavily blue-veined cheese, stinky washed-rind cheese (Époisses, Munster).
