Exceptional porto where the balance of sweetness, vibrant acidity, and seamless, velvety texture deliver a fresh, delicious, sophisticated take on 20-year-old tawny porto, the version many consider the apex of elegant, affordable porto winemaking. $65-85
Dona Antónia is made with the classic Portuguese grapes: Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Touriga Franca, Tinta Barroca, and other field blend red varieties. The wine ages in roughly 640-liter (169-gallon) oak casks in Vila Nova de Gaia. The blend uses wines aged 15 to 30-plus years to reach an average of 20 years. It should be pointed out that “20-year-old porto” is as much a description of style as an average of the years in oak.
Ferreira, the producer, dates to 1751 when it was founded by a family of winegrowers from Peso da Régua in the Douro, five years before the region was demarcated. A Portuguese family effort in the Douro was unusual. Most of the porto trade was run by British shippers based in Porto. Ferreira was based in eastern Portugal, up the Doura valley where the grapes are grown and fermented prior to being shipped down the Douro to the “lodges” in the Atlantic port towns were the wine is finished. It is the only Porto Wine company that has always been in Portuguese hands.
This wine brand name honors Dona Antónia Adelaida Ferreira (1811-1896). She married her cousin in 1834 and took over the business when her husband died 1844. Known as “Ferreirinha” (“Little Ferreira”—an affectionate term in Portuguese that is a reference to her generosity, concern for vineyard workers, and commitment to the region, not to her physical size). Dona Antónia was a trailblazer. She bought land when other houses bought grapes. She built roads where none existed before. By the time Dona Antónia died, she was the largest landowner in the valley with 23 properties. She built schools and hospitals and gave aid during the phylloxera crisis. In 1987, Dona Antónia’s descendants wanted out of the wine business and sold to Sogrape Vinhos, Portugal’s largest wine company and also a family-owned operation that aligned with Ferreira’s values.
Sogrape recently changed the name of this brand from Duque de Bragança to Dona Antónia, an interesting move since Duque de Bragança has long been considered one of the better 20-year-old portos. While the name changed, there is no indication methodology changed. Given that 20-year-old porto can include wine components from 30 to even 40 years ago, this appears more a marketing or minor blending decision rather than a directional change. Since porto can be cellared for decades, if you have a bottle of Duque de Bragança and enjoy it, you likely will not discover a meaningful—if any—difference in a bottle of Dona Antónia. Luís Sottomayor has led Ferreira’s port making since 2003.
Ferreira Dona Antonia 20 Year Old Tawny Porto, Portugal: Dark orange, tawny color; jammy ripe fruit, candied orange, dried fig, apricot, burnt caramel, cinnamon, pepper, ginger, hazelnut, almond, cedar on the nose and palate. 20% ABV
Sweet (125 g/L), complex, elegant, sophisticated, and fresh rather than heavy and sweet. Excellent acidity (3.2 pH; 5.5 g/L TA). Medium-full to full bodied. Silky, velvety mouthfeel. Soft, integrated tannins that manifest with some grip at the finish to add to the freshness. Balance is a signature feature of this brand.
Pairing—Porto shines as a dessert pairing. Crème brûlée or pastéis de nata; warm pecan pie or walnut tart; caramelized apple tarte tatin, poached pears with warm spice; foie gras or rich pâté (as an appetizer pairing). Cheese—Aged Manchego; aged Gouda; São Jorge (Portuguese cow’s-milk cheese). Blue cheeses: English Stilton, Roquefort, Gorgonzola Dolce.
