Ponzi Vineyards Chardonnay Reserve Willamette Valley 2012: A delightful, certified organic offering from skilled Oregon maker (Luisa Ponzi, second generation of Ponzi family winemakers). Peach, nectarine on the nose; yellow peach on the palate, along with a pinch of pineapple, tangerine; lilt of lemon and crème brûlée on the satisfying, silky finish; medium body, superb acidity. Fermented in oak using wild yeast, 100% malolactic fermentation, stirred on the lees once a week for six months to develop depth and graceful character, aged in neutral oak barrels for 18 months. This is clean, pure, delicious expression of chardonnay. The Willamette Valley (south of Portland) takes its place among the special wine regions of the world, notable for the strictest label laws in the U.S. and commitment to environment and worker-friendly agriculture. Oregon is better known for delicate, superb pinot noir, but—like Burgundy—acres that grow great pinot also grow great chard. This is refined, tasty example. $34
