Bisol Desiderio Jeio Prosecco Brut DOC NV

Light yellow color with barest hint of green; white peach, orange peel on floral nose; mandarine orange, lemon zest, apricot, apple on the palate.

Light and refreshing in the mouth; while it is brut, some fruit sweetness dashes in and out among the acidity and lemon zest flavor, so this is on the sweeter end of brut, approaching extra dry. Some yeast on the attack and minerality of the finish. Balanced, well-made as you would expect from Bisol. Simple and straightforward Prosecco—this is a DOC level bottling, the first layer of the Prosecco “Pyramid of Quality”. DOCG is the next step up, with Cru Cartizze the pinnacle (only one wine qualifies for that honor).

Bisol is one of the premier estates in the Veneto region of northeastern Italy with a wine-making legacy going back to 1542. Bisol claims 21 generations have worked the land and made wine. The estate was on the front lines between Austria-Hungary and Italian forces in World War I but survived, as did the family.

The estate survived again in World War II. After WWII, patriarch Desiderio Bisol distributed different roles to each of his four sons. Antonio, in charge of administration at Bisol, notes: “my father Desiderio was acutely sensitive to product quality and always tried to buy the best plots, the most expensive and steepest and therefore the most difficult to work, but it was that very steepness and composition which made them ideal for nurturing Glera grapes”—the grape used to make Prosecco, including this effort.

Gianluca Bisol, managing director of the company, explains his family-business focus: “We work tirelessly with passion so that Conegliano will gain the same prestige as Reims, Valdobbiadene the same charm as Epernay and Prosecco the same notoriety as Champagne.” The “notoriety” translation in the quote may better be thought of as “fame,” but you get the general idea. There is no question the Veneto is successfully establishing itself as one of the world’s premier winemaking regions.

Bisol Desiderio Jeio Prosecco Brut DOC NV is clean, easy drinking, entry-level Prosecco to Bisol’s impressive line of wines. Can work very well as an aperitif, also will pair with wide range of food. $12-18

Bisol website

Other photos: Bisol family; Bisol cellar.