Very dark, somewhat rustic wine made from ancient Otskhanuri Sapere grapes thought to be a transitional variety between wild and domesticated vines. This example displays a gamey, savory edge. At the same time, it is smooth with noticeable but amenable tannins and works well with hearty, umami-driven fare. $15-24
Otskhanuri Sapere grapes are indigenous to western Georgia and named for the village of Otskhana. Today they are grown primarily in Imereti. The grape almost disappeared under the unfortunate era of Soviet standardization, but is now being revived. It is a rare teinturier grape where both its flesh and juice are dark red, which accounts for its very dark color. Most wine grape juice is clear or light green-yellow; red wine gets its color from contact with dark skins rather than the color of its juice. Otskhanuri Sapere gets its deep color from both its juice and skins.
The Otskhanuri Sapere grapes are not picked until late October or early November, allowing complete ripening. The wine ferments in French oak barrels, where it is aged for two years. It then spends at least a year in bottle to soften and integrate some more. Grapes come from select vineyards in the Baghdati villages of Imereti, in the central western part of the republic along the middle and upper reaches of the Rioni River. Imereti is Georgia’s most populous region outside Tbilisi.
With archaeological wine sites dating back 8,000 years, Georgia is often called the cradle of wine. The present winery’s story began in 1984 when production started at Georgia’s largest Soviet-era alcohol plant. Dimitri Dugladze took over the operation in 2004 after the USSR’s collapse, fulfilling a lifelong dream of establishing a wine and spirits company. The Dugladze Wine Company LLC was founded in 2004 by Dimitri’s sons when Dimitri handed off the operation. Today, Dugladze is one of the largest makers and exporters of Georgian wine, with the second and third generations of the Dugladze family continuing the tradition and the dream. Temur Gonjilashvili is the chief winemaker.
Dugladze Wines & Spirits Otskhanuri Sapere Dry Red, Georgian Wine 2021: Deep ruby color; black plum, black cherry, blackberry, blackcurrant, pomegranate, smoke, black peppercorn, toasted oak, gamey-earthy notes on the nose and palate.
Dry; smooth, elegant tannins; balancing acidity. Full body. Dense mouthfeel. While there is a savory, rustic edge to the wine, it is a refined rusticity. Think hands-on vineyard worker dressed in his Sunday go-to-church clothes. It does not easily fit into wine descriptors—dark fruits come close, but there is a little tilt. Close, but not quite it. You really need to find a bottle to experience something whose lineage dates back thousands of years. Dugladze Wines & Spirits exports to more than 30 countries, including the U.S. 12.5% ABV
Pairing—Grilled or braised red meats, ribeye, shashlik/kebab, brisket. Lamb—rack, shoulder, kebab. Barbecue and smoked meats. Pork ribs with savory rub. Roast duck, other rich poultry, game birds. Bean-forward and legume stews, wild mushroom dishes, richly-sauced ragùs. Cheese—Bold, aged, salty cheeses; aged Georgian Sulguni (especially smoked); Guda; aged pecorino; Manchego curado/viejo; aged gouda (2-4 years); rustic aged cheddars (English farmhouse, clothbound). Avoid fresh, very creamy, or bloomy rind cheeses.
Dugladze Wines & Spirits website
