Valentine wine

Note to male readers: Valentine’s Day happens next Tuesday. You are expected to do something romantic—so is she for that matter, but the consequence of a man ignoring the day is more dire than it is for people of the feminine persuasion.

No sense in arguing Valentine’s is creation of greeting card companies and flower shops to bridge gap between Christmas and graduation and weddings. That ship sailed long ago.

Strategy: roses and rosés. There is a despicable canard that rosé wine is only fit for dilettantes sipping in summer. No. Rosé is superb expression, delicious, lovely to look at, excellent with food, serious wine when done right—and many wineries do rosé right.

Show the person you love that you love them Tuesday with some roses and some rosé, and throw in whatever else stirs your hearts.

Tasting notes:

• Chloe Rosé Monterey County 2015: If she or he likes to flirt with sweeter wine, this flirts with sweet without going overboard. $12

• E. Guigal Côtes du Rhône Rosé 2015: Another winner from E. Guigal; heft to pair with lighter red meats. $14

• Astoria Sparkling Moscato Rosé NV: Nice balance of fruit and sweetness; honey on the finish. $14

• Masciarelli Villa Gemma Cerasuolo D’Abruzzo Rosé 2015: Gorgeous deep ruby red color from top maker in Abruzzo, Italy. $15

• Bisol Desiderio Jeio Cuvée Rosé Brut Spumante NV: Quality alternative to pricier Champagne. $15

• Juvé y Camps Pinot Noir Brut Rosé Cava NV: Very dark salmon-pink color, enthusiastic bubbles, creamy, plenty of wow factors. $16

• Schramsberg Mirabelle Brut Rosé North Coast NV: Classic pinot noir-chardonnay blend from maker that has supplied wine to every administration since Nixon in 1972. $26

• Hecht & Bannier Côtes de Provence Rosé AOC 2015: Classic light orange Provence rosé color; refreshing, clean, good acidity. $21

• Champagne Palmer & Co. Rosé Réserve NV: Palmer often is called the best Champagne house you have never heard of; savory and sophisticated. $68

Last round: “I will be your valentine. I will comfort you after a bad day and help you celebrate a good day. I will make you feel like you are the most beautiful and intelligent person in the room. You can have me right now. I am open to anything.”—Your bottle of wine.