Astoria Alìsia Pinot Grigio 2014

Bright light gold straw color; vivid melon, honey, cut grass on the nose; crisp citrus, lemon zest, nectarine on the palate.

Packaged to stand out in short, squat bottle with distinctive label (distinctive bottles and labels are signatures of the Astoria brand), this is light, simple, wisp of a wine that pleases. Acidity and citrus tartness trump fruit flavors. Medium body. Simple, relatively one-dimensional wine, but competent for what it is at nice price point, and it gets better the next day after some air. This can be enjoyed well-chilled with light foods, also over ice as a summer pool-afternoon drink, or with carbonated water or sparkling mineral water as a refreshing spritzer. You could also decant to bring out nuances—I did so and was impressed with the result.

Astoria was founded in 1987 by a well-established family of Italian winemakers, Paulo and Giorgio Polegato. Located in the Conegliano–Valdobbiadene region of northeastern Italy, best known for Prosecco. Astoria makes a wide range of Prosecco wines in addition to reds and this pinot grigio. Astoria asserts their Veneto vineyards consist of “acres located in one of the most beautiful wine-growing areas in Italy, renowned for its climate, highlight the harmonious succession of hills and vineyards.”

Astoria Alìsia Pinot Grigio 2014 is very serviceable, versatile, light, simple pinot grigio at nice price. $7-10

Astoria-U.S. distributor website

Astoria Italy website

Other photos: Paolo and Giorgio Polegato, Astoria winery