Kim Crawford Pinot Gris Marlborough 2014: Pale gold color; delicate nose; delivers with good fruit on the palate, peach, apple, pear, melon, honey; clean, bright pleaser, good acidity. Kim Crawford and his wife, Erica, have been meteoric trailblazers in New Zealand wines since the late 1990s, charging onto the world wine stage in the 2000s with year-after-year 90-point scores from the various panjandrums of wine scores. While KC is most noted for superb sauvignon blanc, this pinot gris has delightful fruit-forward sweetness with blade of New Zealand grass and expected food-friendly, palate-cleansing acidity. Refreshing, easy drinking, appropriate price. $16
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Author: gusclemens
Château Lilian Ladouys Saint-Estèphe 2010
Château Lilian Ladouys Saint-Estèphe 2010: Inky ruby-black; red fruits take time to open for the nose, then reward; muscularly flaunts power of cab-driven Saint-Estèphe with full, puckery tannin, rich blackberry, black currant, oak, smoky toast, earth on the palate. Some Saint-Estèphe are suave and reserved (usually merlot-driven), this immediately lets you know you have a robustly serious Bordeaux in your mouth—60% cab, 40% merlot. Full body; swirl-a-lot or decant-an-hour-plus to bring out its best. Saint-Estèphe is the northmost of the six communal appellations of Médoc. Serious, impressive, big-boy pour; not made for faint-of-palate newbies, but seasoned sippers will enjoy a fling with Lilian Ladouys. $35
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Badenhorst Secateurs Red Blend Coastal Region 2011
Badenhorst Secateurs Red Blend Coastal Region 2011: Inky color, pepper, smoke nose; big cherry, raspberry, plum, redcurrant tang, some white pepper and restrained oak on the palate; shiraz (64%), cinsault (26%), grenache, mourvèdre, pinotage (grapes and percentages vary with vintage); complex and well-done, supple tannin, easy drinker, easy finish. Adi Badenhorst is one of the new giants in South African winemaking, pushing Swartland region onto the world stage with his charisma, beefy rugby player body, pork chop sideburns, freewheeling conversational style, and passion for quality wine at reasonable prices. Ari asks the fruit to speak, so counterintuitively this is not bulldoze you over booze bomb, but comes in at restrained 13.5% alcohol. Most people know of the Stellenbosch and Paarl wine regions in South Africa; Swartland (30 miles north of Cape Town) is a new frontier of wine and olive production. Get a flavor of the spirit of the region and winemakers by visiting http://aabadenhorst.com and checking out their “The Swartland Revolution” poster where Adi is dressed up somewhat like Mr. T surrounded by toughs in leather and an easy-on-the-eyes lass while bombs explode and helicopters and missiles fly in the background. They may talk bad boy, but boy they make good wine. $19
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High summer sippers
High summer’s go-to wines: rosé, vinho verde, prosecco. Continue reading
Masciarelli Marina Cvetic Chardonnay Colline Teatine IGT 2011
Creamy, rich Abruzzo beauty; stone fruit, slice of citrus, pad of butter, bit of banana, whisper of French oak; dry, crisp with depth and clarity of flavors, exceptionally clean from largest organically farmed estate in Italy. $43
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July 4th
Fourth of July wine suggestions are fraught with patriotic paradox and peril. Continue reading
Acidity
Acidity is vital for vino. Continue reading
Father’s Day
In eighth year of this column, coming up with something new for Father’s Day put me over a barrel trying to roll out something fresh. Continue reading
Snobbery
Snobbery is pernicious peril for wine drinkers. Continue reading
