An effete wine server ostentatiously extracts the cork and pretentiously presents it to you. Now what?
Do you studiously examine the cork for flaws? Smell it? Lick it?
Continue reading “Cork conundrum”
Category: Recent Columns
Foil capsules
A wine bottle’s foil (or faux foil) cap is an almost-anachronism.
Today, the cap usually is an unnecessary obstacle to opening the bottle. It serves little purpose other than a branding opportunity for the maker and a chance for your wine server to show off. Continue reading “Foil capsules”
Dirt tasting
We should have known it would come to this. With growing emphasis on organic farming and terroir (vineyard environment, soil, climate), obsessive wine/food afficionados would do dirt tastings.
Yes, people tasting dirt. Continue reading “Dirt tasting”
Low end glut
Today, Americans collectively drink more wine than any other nation, an epochal change that began three generations ago. In addition, we are more sophisticated about what we drink.
Not all wine makers, however, are thrilled by increased sophistication. Continue reading “Low end glut”
Supermarket wine
Fine wine makers have mixed feelings about supermarket chains selling their wine.
On one hand, grocery stores offer exciting opportunities to sell to folks who would not set foot in a wine or liquor store.
On other hand, wineries worry about image. What if loyal customers of a winery’s high-end efforts balk when they find winery’s third-level bottles alongside cheap bargains on a grocery aisle? Continue reading “Supermarket wine”
Random wine facts
Random wine facts to calm timorous tipplers and furnish factoids to help you impress friends. Continue reading “Random wine facts”
Wine issues
Open enough wine bottles and you will encounter things you aren’t sure about. What do you do?
Things you don’t have to worry about and are not flaws: Continue reading “Wine issues”
High summer sippers
High summer’s go-to wines: rosé, vinho verde, prosecco.
We visited rosé last week. Vinho verde is delicious, delicate, light wine from northern Portugal you should try.
Prosecco sometimes is called poor person’s Champagne, but that does disservice to sparkling wine that is made in Italy’s Veneto region and tastes great in a plastic cup by the pool. Continue reading “High summer sippers”
July 4th
Fourth of July wine suggestions are fraught with patriotic paradox and peril.
Patriotic call: California zinfandel, quintessential American wine. But zin is bold, fruity, high alcohol; drink early in heat and you pass out before firework’s rocket red glare. Not cool, dude. Continue reading “July 4th”
Acidity
Acidity is vital for vino.
When acidity is too low, wine is dull and flat. When acidity is too high, wine is tart and sour.
When acidity is just right, wine is a palate-cleansing food friend, a delicious delight.
Wine acidity sweet spot is between 3 and 4 pH. Most wines land between 3.3 and 3.8. Whites tend to be more acidic than reds. For comparison, milk is around 6.6 and lemonade 2.5
Once upon a time, wine wonks imagined they could spin any grape into gold, but that hubristic notion proved wrong. To make good wine, you must start with a good grape farmer.
A good grape farmer starts with good soil and an obliging climate.
Warm climates produce wonderfully fruity, sweet grapes. But warm throttles acidity.
Cool climates produce wonderfully acidic wines. But cool throttles sweet fruitiness.
There are places where climate embraces wine’s vines—warm days, cool nights—and, guess what, that’s where world’s great wines are made. Something to remember next time you buy a bottle.
Chardonnay is classic example of role played by land and climate (“terroir”). French chablis is chardonnay produced in cool climate; winemakers know how to make a flinty, food-friendly wine. Chablis is so acidic, it typically requires malolactic fermentation—a process that turns malic acid into softer, buttery flavors. Chaptalization—adding sugar—is permitted. Adding acetic acid is not.
California chardonnays fight for acidity in warm, fruit-friendly climate. Californians cannot add sugar to increase sugar levels; no problem, they don’t have to. Adding acid—allowed.
Both places produce charming, different chardonnays. Such is wine’s refulgent wonder.
Tasting notes:
• Dark Horse Chardonnay 2013: Pear, peach, apple, butterscotch, caramel, on-lees aging adds nutty flavor; oak not over-the-top; good acidity; easy drinking value with fillip of flair; sip cool by pool. $10
• Mirassou Pinot Grigio 2013: Crisp acidity; citrus, orange zest, pear, peach; soft mouth; delicious, sweet ripe-fruit freshness. $12
• Frei Brothers Russian River Valley Reserve Chardonnay 2013: Polished exemplar of Russian River chard; green apple, honeysuckle, melon, pineapple; cool climate vineyard delivers superb acidity to crisply complement food; graceful easy drinker. $20
Last round: Wine is greatest human invention. Yes, wheel is impressive, but it does not go nearly as well with pizza.
Email Gus at wine@cwadv.com. Follow tasting notes on Twitter @gusclemens. Website: gusclemens.com. Facebook: Gus Clemens on Wine.