Author: Gus Clemens

Viña Arnáiz Toro Pata Negra Roble 2013: Blackberry nose grows with exposure to air; French oak shows, ripe red fruits, plum, raspberry; fruity, smooth, sweet tannin. 100% tempranillo from the Toro DO, a province in Zamora in northwestern Spain, near the border with Portugal. Toro has long, hot summers, which results in the ripe fruitiness found here. Sometimes tempranillo is called “tinta de Toro” in the region. Wines from Toro have immense history—dating back to 1st century BCE; wines from here were substantial trade good in Early Middle Ages (5th to 10th century). This is made-for-trade wine, some 50,000 cases, and Viña Arnáiz is proud to sell on every continent. It has some rustic edges and certainly is not complex, but works quite well as a pull-and-pour pizza or burger buy. $11

Chateau Ste. Michelle Indian Wells Chardonnay (Columbia Valley) 2013. Light, creamy, extra dry; golden apple, lemon zing, butterscotch, pear, tropical fruit; appropriate oak and vanilla enhance lengthy pleasure. Chateau Ste. Michelle is the oldest and largest wine maker in Washington State with roots extend back to the end of Prohibition. In 1967 it began making premium wines labeled Chateau Ste. Michelle under the direction of Andre Tchelistcheff, often called the Dean of California Winemakers and a mentor to many of the most prestigious West Coast winemaking giants. Consistent, affordable, available quality is a hallmark of the operation vintage after vintage; it is one of America’s most-awarded wineries and led the effort to obtain federal recognition of the Columbia Valley in eastern Washington as an American Viticulture Area (AVA). This effort is deeply rich, complex, delicious delight with food and sipped solo. $15-17

Ecco Domani Prosecco 2013: Light, slightly fizzy, crisp, clean; citrus, green apple, honey; creamy sweet with excellent balancing acidity, nice finish. Works well with food and as aperitif. Northeast Italy’s Prosecco had cooler growing season than normal in 2013, which made this wine more delicate and with very fresh acidity (3.14 pH). Ecco Domani translates to “Here’s Tomorrow,” and this is tasty way to salute the future; at 10.5% alcohol, you also would have to drink a lot to fear a morning hangover. Nice value a range of palates will enjoy. $11

Joel Gott Pinot Noir California 2013: Ripe cherry fruitiness, some cedar and spice, fig, raspberry; juicy, balanced, soft tannin, smooth, wisely gentle on the oak. Joel Gott also makes an Oregon version that sells for about $7 more; California (Santa Barbara, Monterey counties) is the more widely-distributed. Joel Gott is real person; his grandfather was winemaker and president of Inglenook in the 60s and 70s; his father founded Montevina. Joel Gott Winery is partnership with Trinchero Family Estates, which is part of Sutter Home Winery (best know for inventing white zinfandel); Sutter Home is one of the largest family-owned wine companies in US (Gallo is first). Joel Gott is known for affordable, available, consistent quality-for-price pours; this upholds that tradition. $18

Thomas Fogarty Santa Cruz Mountains Merlot 2009: Candied cherry, plum, blackberry, raspberry; ripe fruit-forward, plenty of sweet oak, vanilla; velvety soft, simple plushness, very reserved tannin and acidity. Will certainly appeal to folks who enjoy the soft, big-in-the-mouth, oak-and-fruit storm style of California reds. Merlot is like a movie starlet who makes a big splash (in the 1990s), then struggles in the next part. Merlot’s best role is as a complement to cabernet sauvignon, where it humanizes cab’s austerity and puckering tannins. In U.S., however, it became an entry-level to red varietals for those put off by more serious reds; its pliant softness and gentle tannins were a plus. Then, American palates matured, the movie Sideways came out, and suddenly pinot noir was the next big thing and merlot was so, so last century. This Thomas Fogarty effort has its niche; give it a try. $23-33

Château La Tour de Bessan Margaux 2010: Solid, rich, smoky; plum, blackberry, cherry, nice nip of blackcurrant to keep things interesting, leather; medium body, elegantly smooth in the mouth with silky tannin, balancing acidity; 64% cab, 33% merlot, 3% cab franc; thoroughly delicious and superb value for a Margaux Cru Bourgeois (one critic: “best value in 2010 Margaux). In 1992, Marie-Laure Lurton inherited from her father vineyards once owned by the son of French lawyer, writer, and political philosopher Baron de Montesquieu. She rebuilt the operation from the ground up: replanting, replacing, modernizing, taking Château La Tour from a mess to an operation critics eagerly await each vintage to enjoy the continuing improvement. This is classic Bordeaux, classic blend, delicious, at a price many can afford. $27

Giesen New Zealand Riesling 2013: Pinch of petrol, flint on the nose; lemon grass, honeysuckle, citrus, green apple, tart lime and minerals on the back end; juicy, vivid fruit; medium-sweet, lush mouth, fresh acidity. When you think New Zealand wine, you usually think sauvignon blanc and—increasingly—pinot noir, but this is tasty delight that nicely asserts its place. It is a bit past off-dry and moving into the medium-sweet range, so it should be crowd pleaser to those who enjoy a blush of fruity sweetness in their wine; it’s acidity will placate those who prefer a drier riesling style. $14

HandCraft Artisan Collection Pinot Grigio 2014: Light flowers-lemon nose; exceptionally clean, with demure honeydew melon, lemon. HandCraft Artisan Collection wines are made by DFV Wines, a California winery founded by Idelicato family in 1924; Cheryl Indelicato is today’s maker (third generation) and adds her signature to Artisan Collection labels. The family prides itself on blending California and Italian wine traditions; winemaking comments on this effort note a “playful dash of Italian grape varieties are added as a nod to the vineyard-to-barrel field selections that found their place daily at the table when she was growing up.” This is light, breezy effort that is simple and tasty; a classic easy summer sipper. $12

Fattori Amarone Della Valpolicella Gregoris 2008: Deliciously smooth, semi-bold for Amarone (but bold for any other wine), opulent fruit, plum, sour cherry, hint of vanilla; fresh, clean, elegant; balancing acidity. Amarone is made from corvina and corvinone, helped by rodinella and molinara, grapes found only in Valpolicella. After harvest, grapes dry on bamboo racks from October to February, a process called appossimento that reduces water by 40 percent. When crushed, the almost-raisin results make wine beautifully fruity, wonderfully smooth, famously high alcohol (this is 15%). Fattori’s effort is crushed and fermented with natural yeasts in wood barrels, then aged almost three years in barrels before bottling to add structure and complexity. All this effort makes amarone a pricey wine, so this delicious effort is real value. You can find bigger, bolder, more-wow amarone, but this excels at $40

Ponzi Vineyards Chardonnay Reserve Willamette Valley 2012: A delightful, certified organic offering from skilled Oregon maker (Luisa Ponzi, second generation of Ponzi family winemakers). Peach, nectarine on the nose; yellow peach on the palate, along with a pinch of pineapple, tangerine; lilt of lemon and crème brûlée on the satisfying, silky finish; medium body, superb acidity. Fermented in oak using wild yeast, 100% malolactic fermentation, stirred on the lees once a week for six months to develop depth and graceful character, aged in neutral oak barrels for 18 months. This is clean, pure, delicious expression of chardonnay. The Willamette Valley (south of Portland) takes its place among the special wine regions of the world, notable for the strictest label laws in the U.S. and commitment to environment and worker-friendly agriculture. Oregon is better known for delicate, superb pinot noir, but—like Burgundy—acres that grow great pinot also grow great chard. This is refined, tasty example. $34